Depressed

Spot on. Me being me decided to pull the thing apart without reading up on things first :facepalm: but
that was part of the fun.

Since then, I've actually re-greased an old UN54 just for the hell of it and the tolerances are
extremely tight to get all the balls and axle in the cartridge to "snap" together.

UN7x and UN9x are built exactly the same way, except they have an additional dust seal
on the axle which should pry off with a small screwdriver, but would most likely be distroyed in the process.

This says it all really about the Conrad bearing or sometimes known as deep groove bearings:

The Conrad-style ball bearing is named after its inventor, Robert Conrad, who was awarded British patent 12,206 in 1903 and U.S. patent 822,723 in 1906. These bearings are assembled by placing the inner ring into an eccentric position relative to the outer ring, with the two rings in contact at one point, resulting in a large gap opposite the point of contact. The balls are inserted through the gap and then evenly distributed around the bearing assembly, causing the rings to become concentric. Assembly is completed by fitting a cage to the balls to maintain their positions relative to each other. Without the cage, the balls would eventually drift out of position during operation, causing the bearing to fail. The cage carries no load and serves only to maintain ball position.

Conrad bearings have the advantage that they are able to withstand both radial and axial loads, but have the disadvantage of lower load capacity due to the limited number of balls that can be loaded into the bearing assembly. Probably the most familiar industrial ball bearing is the deep-groove Conrad style. The bearing is used in most of the mechanical industries.
 
Re:

It was my 92 team marin I had to change the bottom bracket on, the teeth on the cups
put up there hands and went.

Figuring once the ledge was out of a cup I could pull the bearing out and cut the cups
out, I made a cutter to remove the ledge.

With the cutter I removed the ledge.

Then I set about the cup with a hacksaw blade.

And I didn't even nick the crests of the threads, surprisingly.
 

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^ quality wrenching right there!

Making a specific tool and then going ahead with the hard delicate work with a hacksaw would
probably put 99.9% of all LBS' to shame. Give integerspin a spanner badge! :)
 
Not sure if this will help you but it worked for me on a GT Pantera frame that I bought from a forum member that had a well and truly seized b/b (several members had bought it and sold it on after sawing,hacking and hammering at it).....I took it to a friend in a workshop....he cut a hole the size of the b/b shell in a piece of 8mm plywood to shield the paint from heat....next step was he welded a three foot length of steel bar to what was left of casing of the b/b....applied pressure and bingo ! out it came...whole operation took maybe ten minutes and there was only the slightest of discolouration to the paint at the edge of the b/b shell which was hidden behind crank upon rebuilding....good luck with yours...don't even think of giving up !
 
Re:

I emailed Royce , and they said to bring it down if I have no luck and they'll get it out. :)

What cool guys , can't imagine shimano doing that lol

Oh well , at least I have a fall back position :)
 
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When I looked on the website what they cost I was shocked.

I was just going to drill two 8mm holes either side of the axle , drill a flat metal bar and put two bolts through , creating a giant peg spanner.

I won't now :facepalm:
 
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