Canti mounts - too far apart?

ededwards

Retrobike Rider
Gold Trader
rBotM Winner
Feedback
View
I've been having some problems setting up some v brakes on the forks on the Inbred - try what I might I couldn't get the pads to bite (adjusted cable, repaced pads etc.) which left me rear brake only on Saturday. Which was nice.

I've now measured and the usual canti mount spacing is 80mm but the forks (RC30s) have about 92mm spacing! Not sure why this is so, hub fits in dropouts fine so legs aren't twisted and I used the forks successfully on another bike with v's.

So, what to do - I could run cantis and have the pads at maximum on their posts? Actually having one canti and one v would be an interesting set up!

Any other advice/suggesions?
 
i had an old GT frame that'd had the u-brake mounts replaced with canti mounts

they were too far apart

i found i could bodge it up using a dia-compe 986, the shape of which allowed me to get the pads fairly far inboard. then i bought a mavic downhill rim to go on there and all my woes ended.
 
My Lloyd has the rear canti mounts really far apart, 80mm rings a bell. I used an additional spacer between the pads and the conical washers to move the arms out and the pads in (Avid Ultimate V's). Works fine when the pads are new and quite thick but when the pads are thin the brakes want to dive in under the rim. I got the additional washers from an old set of V-brakes but any bike shop should have.

Some brake pads are thicker than others - Singletrack magazine commented that the Clarks VRC pads are thicker than normal.

http://www.dotbike.com/ProductsP640.aspx

I've been thinking about trying a set but the money and availability of pads in 20 years time has put me off a bit :roll: ... and it's not really a problem now I have the spacers behind the pads.
 
Is it possible the legs have been switched round and are now in the wrong side? Suppose this would only be possible if the canti spring holes were the type that can move around otherwise they would be facing outwards.
 
The legs are definitely the right way round and parallel (I had thought of the latter but the hub goes in the dropouts with no problem so they must be parallel or very close).

So my attempted solution will be all of the following:
- fatter rim
- thicker pads
- extra washers taken from another pair of pads

Hopefully this combination will work - fingers crossed!
 
The legs are definitely the right way round and parallel (I had thought of the latter but the hub goes in the dropouts with no problem so they must be parallel or very close).

So my attempted solution will be all of the following:
- fatter rim
- thicker pads
- extra washers taken from another pair of pads

Hopefully this combination will work - fingers crossed!
 
Or you could just leave it Ed. I mean, Wales proved we can all ride without brakes!!! :lol:
 
Try some old style cheapo V-brakes that use the post mounted pads found in canti brakes at max extension.
Alternatively remove brake posts from frame and fit U-shaped V-brake adaptor plate from BMX shops. Fits to seatstay bridge bolt hole and has clamps for the seat stays thus brake posts at normal seperation.
Alternatively again, stick with canti idea and use Tektro power hanger to increase canti power. A lever action arrangement that bolts onto seat stay bridge, available from SJScycles.

Cheers
 
Back
Top