2003 Bianchi San Remo Tourer

Here is an update.

I decided to take Bob's advice and flat down the frame and polish it. I used some Jenolite Rust Remover, which is a fairly thick pink paste, that I dabbed on the rust spots and removed after 15 minutes, this was fairly successful on most of the spots, revealing the raw steel beneath.

I then T-cut the frame and polished it. All the components were in good condition so they were cleaned and lubed, both the headset and BB were Campag and cleaned up very well and are now running smoothly in situ. The only snag was the adjuster bolt in the rear mech that had snapped off, leaving the bottom part threaded in the derailleur body. I drilled it out a little to enable me to insert my smallest stud remover and it came out easily.

I put on a new 3T stem to replace the ugly one that was in there, this was actually some sort of suspension stem that I've not seen before. Now I just need to put on the mechs and chain, cable it up, add a new saddle, put on new bar tape and the job's done.

Here's what it looks like so far, with a borrowed Brooks
View attachment 980478



Sometimes the tools work!
View attachment 980479

Here's some close-ups of the "patina"
View attachment 980477View attachment 980475View attachment 980476
Was the process to 'flatten' the paintwork first, then use the jenolite? And what kind of emery paper did you use? And what kind of polish? Would ordinary car wax work? It does look good. I might do the paintwork on my Harry Hall Audax.
 
Here is an update.

I decided to take Bob's advice and flat down the frame and polish it. I used some Jenolite Rust Remover, which is a fairly thick pink paste, that I dabbed on the rust spots and removed after 15 minutes, this was fairly successful on most of the spots, revealing the raw steel beneath.

I then T-cut the frame and polished it. All the components were in good condition so they were cleaned and lubed, both the headset and BB were Campag and cleaned up very well and are now running smoothly in situ. The only snag was the adjuster bolt in the rear mech that had snapped off, leaving the bottom part threaded in the derailleur body. I drilled it out a little to enable me to insert my smallest stud remover and it came out easily.

I put on a new 3T stem to replace the ugly one that was in there, this was actually some sort of suspension stem that I've not seen before. Now I just need to put on the mechs and chain, cable it up, add a new saddle, put on new bar tape and the job's done.

Here's what it looks like so far, with a borrowed Brooks
View attachment 980478



Sometimes the tools work!
View attachment 980479

Here's some close-ups of the "patina"
View attachment 980477View attachment 980475View attachment 980476
PS How did you clean up the cassette? It looked knackered before. Did you put a new chain on or reuse the old one?
 
Was the process to 'flatten' the paintwork first, then use the jenolite? And what kind of emery paper did you use? And what kind of polish? Would ordinary car wax work? It does look good. I might do the paintwork on my Harry Hall Audax.
As written, I treated the rust spots first then T-cut the frame, I tend to use paper towels for this process, I think they are slightly more abrasive than cloth. I may have used some fine wire wool on any stubborn rust spots. Then ordinary car wax and a spray of ceramic coat over the top.

The cassette was cleaned with plenty of detergent and a toothbrush and I measured the old chain and it was not stretched beyond 75% so I reused it.

Good luck wit your reso.
 
Sorry for all the qs. It seemed a bit odd to apply ceramic (varnish?) on top of wax... I'd have thought it would come off very easily afterwards. What brand or type of 'ceramic coat' did you use? Thanks.
 
I am not an expert on this stuff but I just remember reading somewhere that it gave good results on top of a wax coat. I'mm have a look tomorrow and see what it says on the spray.
 
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