1989 Claud Butler Pagan. Gravelly Rebuild?

I thought so....... I think I can engineer a solution to the headset as far as the crown race but, thinking about it, if I'm going to replace the HS and BB is it worth leaving them in to protect the frame threads from the blasting media and powder coat?
 
I thought so....... I think I can engineer a solution to the headset as far as the crown race but, thinking about it, if I'm going to replace the HS and BB is it worth leaving them in to protect the frame threads from the blasting media and powder coat?
I wouldn’t, talk to the powdercoaters. If they’ve never done a bike before, turn around and go somewhere else. If they have they will use a high temperature green masking tape to mask the inside of the BB, head tube, seat tube, mech hanger, mud guard bottle threads..
Make sure they mask inside and trim the masking flush with edges (of the BB,head & seat tube) otherwise you get a nasty lip.
 
As for the crown race on the forks, ring around some local bike shops, one should have a puller. Or you can carefully tap a Stanley knife blade in between the race and the fork crown until you have enough of a gap to get a screwdriver in to prize it off..😬
 
I get distracted for a short while because my new to me frame has finally arrived and all this happens.

I use one of these to remove the crown race, works ok as long as you are careful and it's not too expensive

 
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Regarding trying to lose some weight from young Claud, this was my first attempt at a similar build pretty much using parts I had to hand.

It was about 30lb as far as I remember. Just a word of caution regarding weight, to be very selective over the parts you use. The bike is now built up as a wet weather road bike and with mudguards, seat pack, pump, bottle cages now comes in at feather light 27lb.... It's not easy to make light bikes from these types of frames. I'll post a picture in it's current guise so you can see just how many parts needed to be changed.

(my first time adding an image on the re-worked site and I've added it twice.....)
IMG_20170412_162913.JPG IMG_20170412_162913.JPG
 
I get distracted for a short while because my new to me frame has finally arrived and all this happens.

I use one of these to remove the crown race, works ok as long as you are careful and it's not too expensive

If we’re talking tools... I managed to get a 2nd hand Park tool CRP1from a retiring bike mechanic.... it’s a dream to use..😎 E094B3D1-49BE-4E26-884F-4B688FBC3722.png
 
oh no, now I have tool envy
Yes, so do I. That and your lovely blue resto.

Interesting take on the weight issue. Noted and will do my best to weigh parts as I go along.

I notice both sets of forks in your blue bike photos bracket the shape of mine. Your blue forks look 'MTB' and your black forks look 'ROAD' Guess mine are 'ATB' lol.

20210526_095259.jpg

Planning to talk to the finishers today and hopefully start tearing down the components to see what I have to work with.

More later.

Cheers!

Dave
 
Hi Dave, regarding the forks, yes the original forks are ATB as were most at the time. However, I found that they were exceptionally heavy and also found that because I wanted to run road sti brake / gear shifters, old style stem and bar combos were making the reach too long (old style drops tend to have a very round profile when viewed side on, modern road bars are generally shorter reach). Initially I retained the forks and used a quill to ahead adapter, then I switched completely to ahead style as, rather luckily, the head tube was made for 1 1/8th headset.

The black forks come from sjs cycles and are really nice, made from Reynolds 853 and weigh in at 882g. They were not cheap, though they were not full price either as they came from the discounted section due to non perfect paint finish, though I actually couldn't find anything wrong with the finish.


Don't think I paid what the current price is. They are fine for off road tracks but sjs don't recommend fully laden touring or mountain bike downhill racing...
 
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