Takingabreak
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have fun. https://sheldonbrown.com/
1989 Claud Butler Pagan. Gravelly Rebuild?
- Thread starter Jaffa
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Peachy!
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Now then Jaffa, looks like you’ve already got plenty of good advice from the gang. But if you want to go back to catalogue correct I’ve got everything you need including a great set of Rigda on 130mm Exage hubs (you can still get Hyperglide 7spd 32t rears new on eBay) plus all the mechs triggers/levers & brakes. But then you’ll probably make a better bike out of it by up grading/modernising.
If you wanna talk ‘89 stickers PM me.
If you wanna talk ‘89 stickers PM me.
Jaffa
Dirt Disciple
Hi Peachy,
Looks like you've been down this road a few times before....... wow.
Well I do have a soft spot for the old bike but to be honest I would like to modernise and lighten her, where it would be practical and sensible.
Let's be frank, technology has moved on massively in the last 30 years and the sensible option would be to buy a new bike, that's not the point here though is it but I do like the idea of lower gears and metal brake levers connected to brakes that do actually retard your speed.
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What is this mystical 'technology'? Buying a 'new' bike leaves you stuck with current multiple and often conflicting standards often with far higher servicing and wear. If you were to spec a new bike with a steel frame and half decent parts, expect to have to fork out quite a bit.
Your CB is still relevant. Gears are still operated by cables (unless you decide on full Di2), greasy chains still shift up and down ramped cassettes, nothing has really changed.
The rear wheel looks like its a 'Shimano Uniglide' cassette hub. If it is, the body is held in by a 10mm hollow bolt. Taking the axle out first you can then undo the bolt and the freehub body comes off with it. It can be replaced with a later wider Shimano cassette body which would then allow for anything up to a 10 speed cassette to be fitted. You can then go mad with shifters and mechs to suit. If so, you will need to redish the wheel and space out the axle to suit the frame but at the same time, you could also fit a quick release axle.
Apart from the rear hub, your current wheels are also no different to what you would end up with now, even buying new you would barely be replacing like for like.
Those Exage mechs will shift with 7/8/9 spd Shimano MTB shifters (the front will need fettling as not all cable pull/ swing ratios match, even within groupsets)
Theres lots of road 110 BCD chainring options and Spa Cycles do good quality chainrings so you can use the existing cranks (do not worry about mixing chainrings marked '10spd' with 9 or 8 spd chains).
If you go the drop bar route, you can use 10spd Road bar end shifters with the Exage Country mechs to keep the retro look
You can also go the 1x10 option and keep much of the original parts but you would need to sort the rear wheel. However, unless you live in the Peak district, you may find yourself spinning out at relatively low speeds
So there you go, just to confuse you more!
*Heres a 1987/88 Holdsworth (from the same company that built you CB) running 9spd shifters and 1989 Shimano Mountain LX bits
Your CB is still relevant. Gears are still operated by cables (unless you decide on full Di2), greasy chains still shift up and down ramped cassettes, nothing has really changed.
The rear wheel looks like its a 'Shimano Uniglide' cassette hub. If it is, the body is held in by a 10mm hollow bolt. Taking the axle out first you can then undo the bolt and the freehub body comes off with it. It can be replaced with a later wider Shimano cassette body which would then allow for anything up to a 10 speed cassette to be fitted. You can then go mad with shifters and mechs to suit. If so, you will need to redish the wheel and space out the axle to suit the frame but at the same time, you could also fit a quick release axle.
Apart from the rear hub, your current wheels are also no different to what you would end up with now, even buying new you would barely be replacing like for like.
Those Exage mechs will shift with 7/8/9 spd Shimano MTB shifters (the front will need fettling as not all cable pull/ swing ratios match, even within groupsets)
Theres lots of road 110 BCD chainring options and Spa Cycles do good quality chainrings so you can use the existing cranks (do not worry about mixing chainrings marked '10spd' with 9 or 8 spd chains).
If you go the drop bar route, you can use 10spd Road bar end shifters with the Exage Country mechs to keep the retro look
You can also go the 1x10 option and keep much of the original parts but you would need to sort the rear wheel. However, unless you live in the Peak district, you may find yourself spinning out at relatively low speeds
So there you go, just to confuse you more!
*Heres a 1987/88 Holdsworth (from the same company that built you CB) running 9spd shifters and 1989 Shimano Mountain LX bits
Jaffa
Dirt Disciple
Hi Big Cheese,What is this mystical 'technology'? Buying a 'new' bike leaves you stuck with current multiple and often conflicting standards often with far higher servicing and wear. If you were to spec a new bike with a steel frame and half decent parts, expect to have to fork out quite a bit.
Your CB is still relevant. Gears are still operated by cables (unless you decide on full Di2), greasy chains still shift up and down ramped cassettes, nothing has really changed.
The rear wheel looks like its a 'Shimano Uniglide' cassette hub. If it is, the body is held in by a 10mm hollow bolt. Taking the axle out first you can then undo the bolt and the freehub body comes off with it. It can be replaced with a later wider Shimano cassette body which would then allow for anything up to a 10 speed cassette to be fitted. You can then go mad with shifters and mechs to suit. If so, you will need to redish the wheel and space out the axle to suit the frame but at the same time, you could also fit a quick release axle.
Apart from the rear hub, your current wheels are also no different to what you would end up with now, even buying new you would barely be replacing like for like.
Those Exage mechs will shift with 7/8/9 spd Shimano MTB shifters (the front will need fettling as not all cable pull/ swing ratios match, even within groupsets)
Theres lots of road 110 BCD chainring options and Spa Cycles do good quality chainrings so you can use the existing cranks (do not worry about mixing chainrings marked '10spd' with 9 or 8 spd chains).
If you go the drop bar route, you can use 10spd Road bar end shifters with the Exage Country mechs to keep the retro look
You can also go the 1x10 option and keep much of the original parts but you would need to sort the rear wheel. However, unless you live in the Peak district, you may find yourself spinning out at relatively low speeds
So there you go, just to confuse you more!
*Heres a 1987/88 Holdsworth (from the same company that built you CB) running 9spd shifters and 1989 Shimano Mountain LX bits
Thanks for the info that is fantastic stuff!
That yellow bike is exactly the kind of vibe I was envisioning.
Hmm plenty of food for thought here. Yes I guess technology has moved on but the basics of bicycle operation remain the same.
So I need to make a plan, will wash and assess the bike today and report back here.
Cheers!
Very nice project, lots of potential! Nothing much to add here as the usual suspects have provided killer advice already...
The great thing is there's so many options with a decent 80's MTB/ATB frame (whatever you wanna call it). You get the comfy angles, all the braze ons you need...there 's even of course the potential to go 650B if you really wanted to push the boat out.
Here's a nice example that another member on here built, again from the same family as your frame. Shows what you can do with deep pockets, but there's more than enough scope to work on a budget..
As you say, plenty of food for thought. Will tune in for updates
The great thing is there's so many options with a decent 80's MTB/ATB frame (whatever you wanna call it). You get the comfy angles, all the braze ons you need...there 's even of course the potential to go 650B if you really wanted to push the boat out.
Here's a nice example that another member on here built, again from the same family as your frame. Shows what you can do with deep pockets, but there's more than enough scope to work on a budget..
As you say, plenty of food for thought. Will tune in for updates
Last edited:
Peachy!
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All good stuff from LGF, glad to see he’s back..
The first thing I’d do though is a complete strip and pop along to my local powder coaters for a dip, blast and re-coat. It will look and feel brand new... and shouldn’t cost more than £70
The first thing I’d do though is a complete strip and pop along to my local powder coaters for a dip, blast and re-coat. It will look and feel brand new... and shouldn’t cost more than £70
Jaffa
Dirt Disciple
Hi guys,
I managed to get The Pagan into the shed for an hour this afternoon...
Noticed some nasty rust that has blown the paint off....
Then started stripping her down....
I dont think I have the tools to remove the headset and bottom bracket so I stopped there and examined the frame and forks....
Got to get some more tools now I suppose?
Cheers.
Dave
I managed to get The Pagan into the shed for an hour this afternoon...
Noticed some nasty rust that has blown the paint off....
Then started stripping her down....
I dont think I have the tools to remove the headset and bottom bracket so I stopped there and examined the frame and forks....
Got to get some more tools now I suppose?
Cheers.
Dave
