1979 Carlton Professional restoration thread

[Captain Vimes]

I personally wouldn't powdercoat 531db or equivalent gauge tubing, especially when it means destroying the original paint on the frame, but if you must, (you probably know this already) please don't leave the bottom cup/top race of the headset in the frame when you get it done..

I do know that! (Not quite that bad... ) But, any advice on how to get them out? I have tried WD40 and tapping through the head-tube with a wooden stake, but no joy so far.

 

[Midlife]

You need to tap with a metal object / screwdriver through the head tube........we used to call our metal bar for this job a "drift".

Brakes should be pretty short reach for that frame, Weinmann 500's might be a bit short but your Shimano's should do the job ?

Shaun

 

[Ralph_the_Rohan]

Arabesque Calipers

The Calipers as shown in the Ebay link above are definitely the correct Arabesque ones. Yours I'd guess from the pictures look just a little bit more modern.

Steve.

 

[toomski]

Love the Carlton, class frameset.

I understand where you are coming from about making it your own and getting it painted up. Powder coat will not do it justice though it loses something in the finesse.

Enjoy it anyway you want, at the end of the day there are no wrongs or rights.

Cracking build I was hunting a pro frame down couple of years back but never found one in my size.

I run arabesque on one of my bikes.... faultless.

When I was looking at the Carlton if my memory is not playing tricks, also found they were running some stronglight cranks, simplex gears, weinmann brakes.....

Anyhow your ride will look well with the shimano gruppo.... looking forward to the final build

 

[Captain Vimes]

From what others have said, and from a guy who worked at the factory, the Professionals were produced as frame sets only. So it was up to the buyer to spec it. I like to think that as the arabesque was in production at the time my frame was built the group set is original.

I am looking at painting as well as powder-coating, but the price difference is quite considerable....

 

[Captain Vimes]

Some more parts ready...

Here we have the skewers which have come up nicely. The rear is a Sachs Mailard, the front just has a part number, P1001. Any ideas what that might be?

And here are the rear brake cable clips. They just have Shimano on them and have come up beautifully.

Now a question. I have a modern bottom bracket remover, but can you tell me what tool I need to remove this old style bottom bracket? I am happy to buy one as this will certainly not be my last restoration!

Thanks in advance.

Vimes

 

[Midlife]

Removing the fixed cup can be a nightmare...... at our bike shop we had a massive T-bar tool which screwed onto the cup and we removed it either by hand or putting the whle tool in a vice.

LBS might be best and stick to removing the adjustable cup..

Those shimano cable clips are now quite rare

Shaun

 

[Captain Vimes]

Removing the fixed cup can be a nightmare...... at our bike shop we had a massive T-bar tool which screwed onto the cup and we removed it either by hand or putting the whle tool in a vice.

LBS might be best and stick to removing the adjustable cup..

Those shimano cable clips are now quite rare

Shaun

Ignorance alert!

Er, which is the fixed and which is adjustable cup?

 

[IanSmalley]

Adjustable is the one with the lock ring javascript:emoticon('')

 

[torqueless]

Fixed cup is drive-side.. and in this case it'll be a Left-Hand Thread, loosening clockwise... That's probably why they get so tight, because people have a go at loosening them, not realising that they are in fact tightening them..

can you tell me what tool I need to remove this old style bottom bracket?