130mm Rear Hubs. What You Using?

Of course it's possible, road bikes have been like that for 30 years.

It's a trivial thing to make a 130mm hub from a 135. Buy a shorter axle or cut 5mm off, fit some smaller spacers (B&Q washers if nothing else comes to hand). Reassemble. It's a 20 minute job.

So no redishing the rear wheel is needed if I am to convert a 135mm to 130mm? Cause I was thinking of cutting off 5mm as well instead of going through the whole ordeal of finding a smaller axle, disassembling the hub and insterting the new axle.

Anyone has tried this approach?
 
So no redishing the rear wheel is needed if I am to convert a 135mm to 130mm? Cause I was thinking of cutting off 5mm as well instead of going through the whole ordeal of finding a smaller axle, disassembling the hub and insterting the new axle.

Anyone has tried this approach?
I should've added this ages ago- I put in a Shimano 8 speed Ultegra into the Roberts. I did 'cold' set the rear drops by pushing them in a couple of mm using threaded bar and big washeres, but to be honest it wasn't really necessary to do that. The q/r on the hubs were easily up to the job of keeping the rear end tight.
You can find my thread for the build somewhere under 91' Roberts build finished. (Sorry I haven't sussed how to do a link).
 
So no redishing the rear wheel is needed if I am to convert a 135mm to 130mm? Cause I was thinking of cutting off 5mm as well instead of going through the whole ordeal of finding a smaller axle, disassembling the hub and insterting the new axle.

Anyone has tried this approach?

I've done exactly that and shortened an axle. The only trick is to leave a locknut on the axle before you shorten it - removing it then clears the thread after you have tidied the end with a file. It's best to shorten the left side.

You will need to redish the wheel, as the cassette always sits snug to the right. It's about 1-1.5 turns on the right spoke nipples and a little more than that (say 2) off the left when converting 135 to 130.
 
I've done exactly that and shortened an axle. The only trick is to leave a locknut on the axle before you shorten it - removing it then clears the thread after you have tidied the end with a file. It's best to shorten the left side.

You will need to redish the wheel, as the cassette always sits snug to the right. It's about 1-1.5 turns on the right spoke nipples and a little more than that (say 2) off the left when converting 135 to 130.
Thanks a lot for the clarifications.

I am now having second thoughts of the process though cause according to @Tootyred:
Re-dishing a 135 to 130 with non drive spacers removed is an option, but you increase the dish (weaker wheel as spoke % tensions get worse) by making the dish greater to counter the flanges move towards the non drive side.

So it might worth getting a 130mm hub and building a wheel in the end.
 
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