Recent content by hamster

Vulture capitalists typically find undervalued companies and break them up to sell the assets. This looks more like dumb money - as you say, they assumed the boom to last. Idiots. It's a pity that a decent business got ruined. That said, the bike industry has been trying to find ways to defy...

16 or each: shorter on the drive side. I've used 262 and 264 in the past for 3X, although with XT hubs but they have the same flange diameter. Even Mavic's own numbers for ERD can be a bit variable. You didn't state what cross you intend to build.

New from Spa cycles for £30, I've bought several over the years, they are excellent (I think made by Sugino). https://spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s109p2003/SPA-CYCLES-XD-2-Touring-Cranks-%28pr%29

Could well have done if doing a respray.

I'll take the M6 - assuming it's got a reasonable amount of life left in the braking surface and no dents? Paypal OK?

PM sent

I see a fair few of these sort of things riding along Bournemouth seafront.

Got this: 16" 1998 Fire Mountain. £60 frame & forks, Original Kona seatpost & stem and 113mm UN52 bottom bracket, original seatclamp. Was my wife's bike from new, powdercoated cream about 10 years ago.

Recently I sold an M750 XT one (low band) which was fine for a 50T chainring in terms of the cage curve. Shimano had to build in loads of freedom for seat tube angles. 2T difference is nothing. There is something else wrong.

I'm happily running 44/32/22, with indexed front shifting and Shimano front mechs. I've run 44/29 and currently even 48/32 using a road mech. The only reason I went with road was that it had to be braze-on.

They will work with a huge variety of chainring sizes - I've used them with rings all the way up to 48T. The low-band type seem more tetchy and IME perform worse than high-band types. Set the mech outer cage when extended about 3mm above the large ring and you should be fine.

Wise words from @Tsundere . I would rather Kona finished than hung on as some name-only storebrand like Muddy Fox, These are difficult times for the business, not helped by Private Equity (I worked for a great semiconductor company that was smashed by greedy PE finance). But closures are...

I would replace them all and then true. Use Brass ones (which are plated so look silver) over aluminium ones which are fine until after two winters, when they will seize or fall apart. https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/nipples-spoke-accessories/

100% in agreement - modern MTBs are too niched and sub-specialised. The go-anywhere-do-anything allrounders have gone. That said, I'm puzzled why you then want a Gravel Bike. The geometry is almost identical to a mid-90s MTB so why not just buy one? You will also save a wad of cash.

Too much of a mishmash for me. I would want either: 1. As original, lightly tidied frame with patina and all period bits 2. Restored original, again being heavily faithful to detail (for example waterslide transfers instead of vinyl) 3. Retromod, restored old frame with modern drivetrain...