Dynohub wiring question

[1970sframe]

Yes, I have a Raleigh Traveller with a completely trouble-free dual wire dynamo. But I like the fact that the wires are routed through the frame on the Superbe … if I went for the pair of dual wires required from the Dynohub to the headlight and then all the way back to the rear light, I would only get one of them through the holes in the frame. The other would have to be routed on the outside.

So am inclined to try the single wire approach first and see what happens.

Thank you!

 

[hamster]

On other trick if you can solder is to use solder tags and then a screw into the frame (or simply behind a bolt like a brake or mudguard eye). Typically the earth is coiled around one mudguard stay to the rear lamp. As @bikeworkshop says, it's much better to avoid using the frame as return connection, but solder-joined bridge wires for the key links (lamp to frame, frame to fork) help a lot.

 

[1970sframe]

Great tip, hamster. Thanks!

 

[Woz]

On other trick if you can solder is to use solder tags and then a screw into the frame (or simply behind a bolt like a brake or mudguard eye). Typically the earth is coiled around one mudguard stay to the rear lamp. As @bikeworkshop says, it's much better to avoid using the frame as return connection, but solder-joined bridge wires for the key links (lamp to frame, frame to fork) help a lot.

I'll say it again. There is NO earth on a velo.

 

[1970sframe]

You’re being very … um … negative, Woz

 

[Woz]

Actu

You’re being very … um … negative, Woz

Actually, it's more to do with "phase" and "180 degree (un)phase" when those bobbins in the rear dynamo all whirl about. Called AC. in heavy metal terms. It is a generator / alternator in geek terms.

There needs to be a mobile kinetic driven closed circuit from that power unit, and then distribute it out, one way or another. That is rotational force when riding. The frame is one conductor in the distributor of the power that is all. Don't fuss at this point with optimisation and electrical resistance and "dim" lights. Get the circuit closed.

A properly adjusted headset demands a metal to metal set-up.

The actual junction boxes and where they are on your bicycle, if up for modification, well take your pick. I would choose the front light in that very British structure, and well conceived too - electrically speaking.

I would advise above all a simple rear wheel / repair. So a connector to plug and unplug close to the offending dyno-bub for electricals to not be rewired road side with screw drivers and what not. Especially when pissed when out of the pub. When pissed tolerance can play a role.

I can't doubt for any moment, Raleigh did not produce a bike for intended purpose, at the period, without thinking it through,

There is no way at-all this can't function as intended to be according to original design specs. It is all sound and will work out IMHO.