Why does my old bike feel so slow?

Re:

I still have to check the cranks, but as the bottom bracket is basically brand new, less than 200miles, I have no reason to believe it might be the culprit.
Pedals are OK, yes and there is no rubbing of tires onto the frame.

It's really doing my head in :facepalm:
It must be something obvious that I am overlooking.
Or the BB that is defective, but it felt OK when I fitted it and the chances of it being defective are very slim. I'll double check this afternoon
 
If it feels faster with the steel wheels on then maybe its the wheels? Does the older bike feel slower with alloy wheels on?
 
CTK":24tj9ykl said:
If it feels faster with the steel wheels on then maybe its the wheel? Does the older bike feel slower with alloy wheels on?

I could only try the old bike with the alloy wheels.
The steel wheels have fatter tires that don't fit in the mudguards.
The alloy wheel definitely feel slower, which I don't get because I refurbished the bearings recently. Last week in fact.
Maybe it's the grease? Too thick? It's silicone grease.
 
Perhaps it's all in the mind....................... :twisted:

Seriously though, I've thought this about some bikes I've had and, as far as I'm concerned, they were all mechanically perfect. I had a top of the range Bob Jackson in the late 60's for racing on to replace my Harry Quinn and I could NEVER do decent rides on it. Sold it on eventually and the guy who bought it thought it was great.
 
It seems that at least part of the problem is the chain that doesn't fit for well into the chainring teeth.
I'm not sure about the chain-freewheel compatibility, it's harder to judge on the smaller sprockets.
Chainrings are good, chain is almost new. What do you reckon it makes more sense to replace?
Chain will be cheaper, so I was going to do that
 
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Are the frames of each bike the same size? .
Wheels true ,no flat spots on rims ? .
A chain and the rear free wheel should be replaced at the same time .{if worn out} .
They will skip/jump otherwise .
 
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Same size, yes.

No flat spots.

As I said, I think the chain might be an important factor. I noticed only today, as it was the first time I took it off since first installing it, and it "sticks" to the chainring teeth. Meaning it doesn't freely slot in between the teeth of the chainrings but has almost to be forced into place. I will buy another chain and try.
Unfortunately I cannot swap cranks between the two bikes, they are not the same, one is cottered, the other one is square taper.
 
Re:

No, it's the right kind of chain, but somehow not fully compatible.

I have the same chain on both bikes. Works fine on one, not on the other :roll:
 
Re: Re:

Ugo51":16lrzqyf said:
No, it's the right kind of chain, but somehow not fully compatible.

I have the same chain on both bikes. Works fine on one, not on the other :roll:

3/32 instead of 1/8?
 

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