What you don't dare do, people - Ti `98 Voodoo Loa

[MuchAlohaNui]

Is the steerer tube 1" or 1-1/8"? Something like a Litespeed Tuf-Nek stem would be blingy, titanium and satisfy what you need. Or as suggested, the Paul Funky Monkey (middle picture on their website...the real long one) will be superior to what you are using now.

What cable set did you use? I have a few bikes with the Shimano Opti Slick cables and their polymer coated (on the inside) cable housings on a couple bikes and they are absolutely crazy low friction. If you go with the Paul (and other similar devices of the same length of the cable stop arm thingy) you will see no reduction in brake lever pull even if you opted to run the housing along the lower front part of your bar, make the 90 inward under the stem then your other 90 downward toward the adapter. The cables are super slick and a sight to behold.

Thanks for the update on the seat comfort too.

 

[br0qn]

It sure looks good -- hope you can fettle the ride without too much trouble.

thanks! What you mean about fettling?

Also thanks for the links. I don't know why but I just don't much care for any of the hangers I've found, save the WTB that didn't work. The Paul is, to me, the best looking of that lot though for sure.

Is the steerer tube 1" or 1-1/8"?

1". Some of the Tufnecks were drilled eh? I had a fleeting thought to drill this one That's a good idea though if I could find the right clamp/length/drop & drilled !

Cables and housing are Nissen. I'll look into the opti. Not sure of the culprit but not as nice braking as the setup on my OR. Feels a little spongey and not stopping as quickly...or maybe I need to squeeze harder.

OR - Paul levers, Yokozuna cables, Paul/XT calipers and koolstop pads.
Loa - Gevenalle levers, Nissen cables, Ciamillo calipers and SwissStop pads.

 

[br0qn]

 

[MuchAlohaNui]

Looking good. The seat is still treating you fine?

 

[br0qn]

Looking good. The seat is still treating you fine?

Yes, saddle been great so far. I'm liking the shorter nose and the cutout makes a difference. If I were riding padded shorts I'm sure I'd be fine all day on it.

 

[br0qn]

Nothing changed here other than the front mech. The ultegra snapped on the first ride and a campy was subbed in.




My loop has a few miles of gravel and loose dirt over hardpack and I’ve eaten it more than a few times. These tires aren’t any good for that sort of stuff so new rubber is on. Going to ride tomorrow and see what she does, will get a new pic.

 

[MuchAlohaNui]

Too bad with the tires, eh with the ultegra. At least you ride your bikes!

What tires are you swapping in? More knobby toward the rolling edge or?

 

[br0qn]

They’re specialized pathfinder pro in 700x38.

For sure an improvement in the loose stuff, even at 80psi. But after the ride today I don’t know if it’s worth the compromise (given my usual ride on this bike is 90% paved.) They’re quick on pavement but not as nice or quick as the UltraDynamico that I pulled off. But then, maybe it was just tired legs. Also I had latex tubes in the previous tires and butyl here which must count for something.

The fork is probably maxed out with these so if I eventually want those 42s it means a fork swap =\



I dig the chunk but I should have gotten the tanwalls.

 

[MuchAlohaNui]

Perhaps the proper solution is two sets of the same wheels? Definitely not cost-effective as it means two of the same cassette and all that but the proposition isn't entirely outlandish or extravagant either, all things considering. Or maybe consult your local gravel bike specific shop and see if there is a tire they know of that fits more shoes than you currently have? Or...what about dropping down to 650b so you can space in your 42's? Ah! Or...an extra set of 650b with your 42's?

BikeCalc.com - How to calculate Bicycle Wheel Size

I have been watching reviews on latex and butyl tubes and reviewers swear there is no difference in performance other than being a bit more expensive over your traditional tube and the weight reduction. There are many of these similar e-commerce pages where you can get several rather cheap AND there is no difference in performance or longevity when compared to a name-brand unit of the same material. One name-brand tube is around $20/ea where I can get 10 for the same price.

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[br0qn]

Perhaps the proper solution is two sets of the same wheels?

I've thought about this. I have another set of wheels that work, 700c with 135mm rear hub. Even though they're junky they could serve as a beater wheel for sure. Or I could have another nice set built up. I initially thought I had to build wheels because 135mm 700c wheels are non existent...then I learned 29ers can work No harm though, these wheels are super nice and worth all of the pennies, just don't want to throw that kinda money at a spare set quite yet.

In any case, the problem isn't swapping tires or anything, it's that my ride is often mixed with some road and dirt, just heavily weighted toward pavement but those bits on the dirt suck with the 33 slicks. I think the better compromise is to go back to the 33 slicks and suck it up.

I have been watching reviews on latex and butyl tubes and reviewers swear there is no difference in performance other than being a bit more expensive over your traditional tube and the weight reduction

I don't have any way of measuring the performance gains of latex over butyl but, they feel better. I thought maybe it was placebo but I flatted the rear and replaced my latex with butyl and immediately felt the difference.