Trying to bleed hope rear brake!

Didnt spit the block of wood. I wonder if if the block of wood is too thick so you have pushed the pistons in to the limit. When the lever is released, the pistons cannot move back.

I usually bleed mine on the bike: pads fitted and disc rotor present.
 
02gf74":2b22ovaf said:
Didnt spit the block of wood. I wonder if if the block of wood is too thick so you have pushed the pistons in to the limit. When the lever is released, the pistons cannot move back.

I usually bleed mine on the bike: pads fitted and disc rotor present.


Well i thought you had to push the pistons all the way back?
I done the same with the front and it is spot on.
Will try the dangling caliper way
 
Yup, pistons all the way in.
I usually use a 10 or 12 mm allen key taped into the gap. It's a bloody tight fit.
I never bleed with pads and disc, too much chance of contamination, and with the allen key in the gap I can see if the seals are leaking too.
 
You're right there is risk of pad contamination but jf you are careful and place a rag around the nipple or bleed screw, then you can get away with it.

I fit brakes to the bike then bleed as usually i trim the hose so brakes are on the bike. I do have avid bleed spacer that fits in between the pads but assumed it was same thickness as the rotor so did not push the pistons all the way in.


Sounds like you are bleeding correctly so its a bit of a mystery.
 
Hmmm yeah i know , but there is another way i might also try , people dont pull the lever until the bleed nipple is open , so open nipple the. Pull lever , close nipple pump lever and repeat.
 
^^^^^ no harm trying but i cant see why that would be any better, the way you were doing it previously ensured no air got intk the calliper.

Did you say prior bledding the lever travel was ok?
Could it be a problem in the brake lever - worn or damaged seals. One way to tell is swap round the levers.
 
02gf74":3k3cnzeg said:
^^^^^ no harm trying but i cant see why that would be any better, the way you were doing it previously ensured no air got intk the calliper.

Did you say prior bledding the lever travel was ok?
Could it be a problem in the brake lever - worn or damaged seals. One way to tell is swap round the levers.

No buddy , they had no oil in them as i put braided hoses on them , and i then replaced all the seals on levers and calipers
 
Re:

try:
Lever tied in place, ready to open nipple.
Ensure warm place and leave all day to allow any air to form larger bubbles and travel/rise toward nipple and reservoir. Tap the entire system gently to release any bubbles and wait 15 minutes and bleed, don't move the bike.

Is the fluid contaminated?. this can happen with age and or moisture/ damp in the air it will form very tiny bubbles in the hoses.
 
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