the unofficially cool MTB drop bar thread

Re: Re:

Woz":2c6gnpq3 said:
Yeah, good question about the effect of any sag. About 2cm?

I think the main problem with DB conversions is nailing the reach to be in the hooks on a descent and being able to grab a fistfull of lever as easy with a flat bar.

Old drop bar levers and flared bars unfortunatly do not lend themselves well to riding on the hoods - more of an issue if you like bar ends on a flat bar.


The forks are almost ridged at the moment, so no way to know untill I ride it suspended.

The reach is a big consideration, and was for me, braking on the hoods is spot on, its getting use to the gear lever position for me. I'm hoping with both units brought up the bar my gear changing will improve, cus it aint great at the moment...Lol.
 
Re:

Would be great to have an update with some pics man handling those
funky controls. Can't offer any
experience / advice about those

Got to say, always admire Cunninghams DB because they look well balanced fore-aft - dare I say it like a proper road bike.

Don't know the geo secret...

Anyhow sounds like you selected a
frame with a potential if the TT is short and the seat tube angle
not too slack.
 
Re:

BTW. Just had another closer look. Would the addition of cable adjusters on the rear canti hanger and fork bridge be worth doing to account for brake pad wear?

In-line adjusters would not fit this build - not retro enough.
 
Re: Re:

Woz":2qe04c9w said:
Would be great to have an update with some pics man handling those
funky controls. Can't offer any
experience / advice about those

Got to say, always admire Cunninghams DB because they look well balanced fore-aft - dare I say it like a proper road bike.

Don't know the geo secret...

Anyhow sounds like you selected a
frame with a potential if the TT is short and the seat tube angle
not too slack.

Suntour is nice, but again these are a new one on me and a base model, if I can get the position right and use to them, it might be nice to upgrade the shifters to the better command units in alloy (less flex). Ive only ever seen them on bikes though not for sale.

Agree with the whole geometry question, and I cant do anything but encourage people to try a drop bar build. The whole Project is one big experiment for me.
 
Re: Re:

Woz":1bxw36fw said:
BTW. Just had another closer look. Would the addition of cable adjusters on the rear canti hanger and fork bridge be worth doing to account for brake pad wear?

In-line adjusters would not fit this build - not retro enough.

Either that, or a better compound brake pad.

If I was younger and braver id stay off the brakes...lol
 

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Re: Re:

Woz":jvkacewu said:
BTW. Just had another closer look. Would the addition of cable adjusters on the rear canti hanger and fork bridge be worth doing to account for brake pad wear?

In-line adjusters would not fit this build - not retro enough.


IME pulling cable through (or turning a barrel adjuster) to account for pad wear is a sure fire way to end up with poor brake performance.
 
Re:

Agree there is a limit to this, no substitute to replace pads.

When out on a ride with limited tools and spares, adjusting on the fly or helping a buckled wheel not
to rub is the selling argument.
 
Re:

My attempt at a budget-conscious monster cross, or is that term reserved for bikes with "29 wheels?

ST3.jpg
 
Re: Re:

ThomasElliott":18ff8l42 said:
My attempt at a budget-conscious monster cross, or is that term reserved for bikes with "29 wheels?

ST3.jpg

Looks good. What is the proof in the pudding like? Fun?
 
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