Old mtb to tourer conversion, need a little advice.

SafetyThird

Dirt Disciple
I have a late 90's Trek 6000 which I've owned from new and which has, at various times, been my play bike, commuter bike, exercise machine and London transport alternative. I really don't see myself doing any real mountain biking stuff in the foreseeable so the bike has become my exercise and grocery shopping bike. I'm returning to cycling after a long lay off and have a road bike for long/club/fast/race type rides but as I'm also into hiking/backpacking I'm considering doing some longer tours and have just picked up the France en Velo book which has fired my imagination for a possible holiday next year.

While I have it set up for reasonably comfy riding with luggage, I think the frame is too small really and I would benefit from a frame that's larger and has the appropriate mounts for panniers and mudguards and to get a solid fork in case I want to put on front panniers too and preferably steel in case I need to braze mounts on. I've recently picked up a bargain Shimano dynohub front wheel to experiment with dynamo lights and usb charging and I'm looking at some trekking bars to add a few hand positions.

I guess the big question is, is it worth getting something like an old 80's mtb or touring frame and moving all the components over to create a specific touring type bike? The bike has recently had new chain/cassette and a full service from the local shop. It has Shimano STX 7 speed components & Sugino Impel cranks. if I did, I'd put in a new bottom bracket given the age and possibly a new headset.

Thoughts?
 

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That works for me (per pic), although not sure about shocks.

One summer in the early 1990s 2 mates and I toured round the lakes in Northern Italy, flew into Milan from the UK, and camped so had tents and all necessary kit for camping although were travelling light. 2 weeks. I used my Marin Eldridge Grade. The other two were on a Marin Muirwoods and something else, MTB, non Marin. While they had some issues I think that was more a lack of previous maintenance and preparation than bike issues. Looks like you got this covered.

I've since found the frame a bit big as age has taken its toll. I think the difference in sizes is negligible as long as can get a decent saddle position probably a bit higher than off road, ie long enough seat post. The only other change I made to my bike was road tyres, Specialised Nimbus, I've still got them although they can't be used safely any more. I used long curved bar ends to get multiple positions.

I had rear panniers, the marin had mounts for rack and a bar bag. No front panniers as no mounts and wanted to travel "light".

I was glad we did not do the tourer route, as some of the roads were pretty poor up in mountains and the MTBs were fine. One caveat I was in my 20s and reasonably fit but I doubt I could do it now on any bike :roll:
 
I used to tour decades back on my long gone Raleigh Royal with rear panniers & bar bag. I now prefer the option to get off road onto gravel & dirt so plan to use one of my Orange P7's. I've used one with V brakes & rear panniers & it was great but I built up a 2002 P7 with disc brakes which is now going to be my default bikepacker when restrictions are lifted. I've got Alpkit bar-roll, stem-cells & frame bags up front & a seat pack for the rear. Like you I'm a backpacker so got lightweight kit already. If I decide on panniers I'll swap the rack of my V Brake P7 (redundant commuter, like myself!). I've short travel Pace forks on it & plan to stick with them for now. Got rigid forks in reserve if I change. Best change I've made is adding Humpert Space Bugel bars. Really comfortable over distance & good for lashing luggage too.

I'm looking forward to getting out on the moors as I can ride better than I can walk & hill days on foot are curtailed until after my ankle replacement whenever than happens. Bikes preventing me getting cabin fever.
 

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I can certainly sympathise with age taking it's toll, I'm 54 and a bit creaky, which is part of the reason to get back out on bikes again.

I'd happily go with another mountain bike frame, just one that's a bit larger so the drop to the bars is minimal. Still would be good and the fork needs to be solid I reckon.
 
Re:

If there is nothing particularly wrong with your trek have you thought about swapping out the suspension fork for a rigid one - you could probably fit a Surly Troll fork on there and it will have all the brazeons for racks and fenders. Another option is to buy a Surly Troll fork and move all your bits in addition to the new dyno hub front wheel and build a flat bar full steel international touring all rounder. Troll frames are a pretty good deal and are super adaptable. If you wanted to go vintage I'd look for a late 80's or early 90's rigid mountain bike like a Bridgestone MB3, Kona Lava Dome, Rocky Mountain Fusion, etc. and then swap the newer kit over to the old bike.
 
They can make a very good tourer. Here's a very rubbish shot of the front end of my converted 1990 Saracen. It has done a lot this bike, from race to child seat donkey. It originally came with a 150mm stem so a slightly shorter Softride makes for a comfortable ride.

1.3 slicks and Limpit front pannier mounts help with on road tours. The more hand position question was answered by not changing a thing. I have had these Durrango XC bars since I bought them at the Worlds near Plymouth I can't remember when in the 90s.
 

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This is mine - been more or less like it for 25 years. It's a 1990 Marin Palisades underneath. The frame would be on the large size for me as an MTB, but it's not for wild off-road action. With 1.75 Schwalbe Marathons it will happily handle unsurfaced tracks.
Personally I like drops for long days riding - typically I do 60-80 miles a day set up as below. 20 years ago Chas May added low-rider braze-ons and extra rear rack eyes. The front wheel has an XT dyno for lighting and battery charging, while the gears are 7-speed.
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That looks like a cracking setup.

Now I need to decide on a size for the frame and start the search for something suitable.
 
If you wanted to keep going with your old favourite - a layback seat post may help as might some some longer rigid forks and/or riser bars.

No recommended for touring but I have even fitted a BMX stem/bar to one too small frame to create a a very comfy upright bike for cruising about on
 
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