New boy on the scene 97 rockhopper

[Repacker]

An internet image search seems to show the 97 A1 Rockhoppers with rack lugs even if the catalogue pics don't show them.

 

[Singhsan]

Hm. Says "Direct Drive" on the chainstay. I have a rusty old late-90s rockhopper in the back yard; from what I've been able to gather, "DD" was their brand of chromoly. Forks and frames were cromo, stays were hi-ten

Kind of a tank but seems like it would be a great city bike and an even better art bike. Mine was too badly rusted to do anything with. Too bad, it coulda been a fun project.

Ritchey rims? Hm. Gotta go take another look at that bike lol

That tank-ness? Is the reason I was attracted to the bike, I'll double check the frame with a magnet to check if it's steel or aluminium.

Let's see your bad boy, throw a picture up, share the love.

Thanks

Singhsan

 

[Singhsan]

An internet image search seems to show the 97 A1 Rockhoppers with rack lugs even if the catalogue pics don't show them.

View attachment 697098

That's awesome thanks.

Fyi where is that picture from, the bike looks like it's in amazing condition

Thanks

Singhsan

 

[KayOs]

I think the screws were just tightened quite a bit, which leads to cracks in the paint on the mounts, as these are also painted. Over time and due to vibrations, the paint continues to crack, the aluminium corrodes under the paint and the paint flakes off. Not nice, but not tragic.
At least that is my opinion.
I'm also tinkering with my old Rockhopper at the moment. Have a look here (if you're interested):

1990 Specialized Rock Hopper Resurrection

I found this bike on ebay and thought it would be just right as a city bike. I've always wanted a Specialized and this was almost free. It was all original and nothing really seemed broken. As it turned out, it wasn't... I didn't want to buy new parts so I dug through the parts box and...

www.retrobike.co.uk

 

[Repacker]

It's "Direct A1 Drive - Premium Aluminum" - aluminium to me, aluminum in the US

 

[Singhsan]

I think the screws were just tightened quite a bit, which leads to cracks in the paint on the mounts, as these are also painted. Over time and due to vibrations, the paint continues to crack, the aluminium corrodes under the paint and the paint flakes off. Not nice, but not tragic.
At least that is my opinion.
I'm also tinkering with my old Rockhopper at the moment. Have a look here (if you're interested):

1990 Specialized Rock Hopper Resurrection

I found this bike on ebay and thought it would be just right as a city bike. I've always wanted a Specialized and this was almost free. It was all original and nothing really seemed broken. As it turned out, it wasn't... I didn't want to buy new parts so I dug through the parts box and...

www.retrobike.co.uk

Just had a look at your build, it's coming along nicely.

I'm planning to take mine apart and do the same when the weather gets slightly warmer.

Quick question, is there anything I can do now to prevent the corrosion from spreading further and causing more paint to chip off. I'll slacken the boots of for now to help relieve some of the stress.

Thanks for the insight much appreciated

Thanks

Singhsan

 

[KayOs]

Just had a look at your build, it's coming along nicely.

I'm planning to take mine apart and do the same when the weather gets slightly warmer.

Quick question, is there anything I can do now to prevent the corrosion from spreading further and causing more paint to chip off. I'll slacken the boots of for now to help relieve some of the stress.

Thanks for the insight much appreciated

Thanks

Singhsan

Hmm, I'm not a paint specialist. But I don't think there's much you can do. You can preserve the area with wax and renew it regularly, depending on how often you drive.
If you don't drive on roads covered with salt in winter, it shouldn't spread too quickly. If you do, or if you have other areas where the paint is flaking or blistering, you can either leave it as it is and accept the patina, or have the frame sandblasted and repowdered. In our area this costs around 100€ (plus decals). Or you can do a painting project yourself.
If you want to do that I highly recommend this channel:

https://youtube.com/@ETOE

 

[KayOs]

Oh, if there is no paint around the screws anyway, you can tighten them again. It's too late in those places anyway. The mechanical stress only leads to micro-cracks in the paint at the beginning and starts the whole process. You can also observe this on the dropouts and possibly on the bottle cage mounts.

 

[Singhsan]

Hmm, I'm not a paint specialist. But I don't think there's much you can do. You can preserve the area with wax and renew it regularly, depending on how often you drive.
If you don't drive on roads covered with salt in winter, it shouldn't spread too quickly. If you do, or if you have other areas where the paint is flaking or blistering, you can either leave it as it is and accept the patina, or have the frame sandblasted and repowdered. In our area this costs around 100€ (plus decals). Or you can do a painting project yourself.
If you want to do that I highly recommend this channel:

https://youtube.com/@ETOE

The wax idea is interesting, I think I can possibly improve on it though.

I think I'll using a very mild abrasive on the corrosion and instead of wax try some of that ceramic coating they use for cars. Might give me a years protection on the exposed metal as well as the paint.

Failing that lacquer the frame after cleaning it up and preserve what's there.

It'll come down you how lazy I am feeling on the day

 

[Singhsan]

Oh, if there is no paint around the screws anyway, you can tighten them again. It's too late in those places anyway. The mechanical stress only leads to micro-cracks in the paint at the beginning and starts the whole process. You can also observe this on the dropouts and possibly on the bottle cage mounts.

I am guessing but another layer or two of lacquer could stop the micro cracks from spreading.

Have to ask some paint guys I think.