I do love building wheels!

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groovyblueshed":7fslax5b said:
very interesting to see the soldering detail on the spokes – does this make the wheels quite rigid? Is the 10,000km part of training?


Studies by people like Jobst Brand say that it has no impact on the strength of the wheel but it looks cool and it makes the spokes make a very cool noise when you ting them.

Apparently tying and soldering was first used on big wheel bikes to prevent broken spokes from flaying about and cutting legs, it's also used today to prevent broken spokes from destroying a wheel which I reckon is going to be useful on a disc wheel. This is the main reason you'll see these types of wheels on Paris Roubaix type races where a broken spoke down a cobble path with no neutral support can wreck a race.


cce":7fslax5b said:
how did they build up? i'm considering a set

Very easy! The rims are superb quality but I mated them with Sapim spoke nipple washers to ensure I could use decent tension without ripping into the spoke bed. The hubs are usual hope quality and a dream to built to without need to hammer the spoke heads to fit the flange that you have to with some brands.
Simple build with two spoke lengths across the two wheels
 
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pete_mcc":1ed02570 said:
Very easy! The rims are superb quality but I mated them with Sapim spoke nipple washers to ensure I could use decent tension without ripping into the spoke bed. The hubs are usual hope quality and a dream to built to without need to hammer the spoke heads to fit the flange that you have to with some brands.
Simple build with two spoke lengths across the two wheels

Always good to hear real-world feedback, thanks
 
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Oh no, this sticker/valve alignment thing has turned into a monster! There's too many variables going on there... ;)

If nothing else, those soldered spokes look way cool but I think can appreciate the idea of them holding together if something on the wheel breaks as you're hurtling along. Nothing like flailing spokes at speed to dampen your day.
 
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Gaddmeister":2v86nyy9 said:
Ok? If I aligned my hub logo with the valve hole it would be the opposite side to the sticker! Yer foiled! :D

The biggest issue is if you have the inner tube valve, tyre logo, rim logo and hub logo on the same side then the extra weight of all that would throw the wheel balance out totally causing catastrophic failure at any second. You need to ensure that rim logo is on the opposite side to balance everything. Honest.
 
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pete_mcc":3ep4akm4 said:
Gaddmeister":3ep4akm4 said:
Ok? If I aligned my hub logo with the valve hole it would be the opposite side to the sticker! Yer foiled! :D

The biggest issue is if you have the inner tube valve, tyre logo, rim logo and hub logo on the same side then the extra weight of all that would throw the wheel balance out totally causing catastrophic failure at any second. You need to ensure that rim logo is on the opposite side to balance everything. Honest.
There see?? :D
 
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Bummer: one puncture on the rear in last Friday's deluge and three more blow outs today commuting to work – all on the front tyre, 15 mins apart. Spent lunch picking any bits of grit or glass or anything catching the sunlight out of the tyre. Gave up on the inner tube, left bike at work and took the trains back home – bad move: South West Trains out with signal failure at Waterloo; someone fell on the tracks at Ally Pally on Great Northern route; someone on the tracks at Southgate Piccadilly line. What a day. Will take in spare inner tubes for tomorrow's return home with bike.

Is it advisable to squirt some sealant into the tubes in case of punctures?
 
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