I’ve given a home to a knackered old Dog on its last legs-
- Thread starter Retro Spud
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PeachyPM":1mjyqb7s said:Ahhh! Grow a pair! It’ll be fun! (Just don’t do it in the kitchen)
Oh, & definitely video it!
Perhaps a few stills but nothing on the level of enc and his Kona videos
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvcR8ZyhuQ4&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]
Falkster":1mjyqb7s said:Smart looking bike mate - purple will be a bit of a clash though
I think I've had my fair share of Purple Anno - two's builds are enough for me, besides theres a new kid on the block with an Alpinestars joining the club
mkone":1mjyqb7s said:
Thanks Mark / Carl and of course BoB who uploaded the article in the first place.
Came as a surprise to see a Trek like mine rubbing shoulders with proper Up-town Boutique brands, almost as much as a shock as seeing the Fat dressed in Kline colours, way before they were Kline colours :shock: .... anyway an education as always guys... thanks for sharing
if anyone fancies a read here's a copy of BoB's scan now in wide format size for those with failing eyesight
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When I saw this frame come up my only reservation was the front mech as these frames have a strange set up on the front mech which is pretty much unique to Treks of this era.
I’ve seen the front Mech referred to as a “Top Push Mech” with a Doohickey fitted – okay it’s strange idea but gets around the problem of using a bottom pull mech with top tube cable routing without the need of a roller. (I beleive top pull mechs weren’t available in 1990/91)
Heres monsieur 24 Pounces fine example
And Here’s a fine example of Anglo Saxon garden shed engineering standing in for the real deal.
Without wishing to come across as unappreciative of Longun “bush fix” I just couldn’t live with the “Rustic look” but so greatful for it never the less as it gave me a good idea of how the set up works. So thanks to Incorrigable (Chester Nimitz) in the U.S I’ve now got this on route from a Genuine 1991 Trek in near NOS condition
Not sure how well this set ups going to work, but I like the idea of having a Top Push Mech with a “Doohickey” - I have to confess to Googling what the word meant http://bfy.tw/MJLA
When I saw this frame come up my only reservation was the front mech as these frames have a strange set up on the front mech which is pretty much unique to Treks of this era.
I’ve seen the front Mech referred to as a “Top Push Mech” with a Doohickey fitted – okay it’s strange idea but gets around the problem of using a bottom pull mech with top tube cable routing without the need of a roller. (I beleive top pull mechs weren’t available in 1990/91)
Heres monsieur 24 Pounces fine example
And Here’s a fine example of Anglo Saxon garden shed engineering standing in for the real deal.
Without wishing to come across as unappreciative of Longun “bush fix” I just couldn’t live with the “Rustic look” but so greatful for it never the less as it gave me a good idea of how the set up works. So thanks to Incorrigable (Chester Nimitz) in the U.S I’ve now got this on route from a Genuine 1991 Trek in near NOS condition
Not sure how well this set ups going to work, but I like the idea of having a Top Push Mech with a “Doohickey” - I have to confess to Googling what the word meant
http://bfy.tw/MJLA
I guess the question to ask, is which.
Casting our mind back to BITD, which one would we have all chosen.
Steel was real, but been around for a long time,
Titanium was a wonder material,
Box section aluminium and a carbon fork was like looking at something out of the Space Odyssey
And A tricked out Carbon Fibre with the NEW Rock shox fork was previously thought of as unobtanium.
I guess we know our minds now, but what one of these "SuperBikes" would we have chosen BITD....?
One things for sure, I bet Steve Worland had a smile on his face opening these boxes. (RIP.)
Casting our mind back to BITD, which one would we have all chosen.
Steel was real, but been around for a long time,
Titanium was a wonder material,
Box section aluminium and a carbon fork was like looking at something out of the Space Odyssey
And A tricked out Carbon Fibre with the NEW Rock shox fork was previously thought of as unobtanium.
I guess we know our minds now, but what one of these "SuperBikes" would we have chosen BITD....?
One things for sure, I bet Steve Worland had a smile on his face opening these boxes. (RIP.)
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sinnerman":6pb4cpod said:
I think I'd have gone with the Pace then Alpinestars followed by the Fat and lastly the Trek
but would have been more than made up to own any of them - mind you I loved by lowly NTI Rock Lobster that I had before my F2
What makes me smile about the above article is the Photography - no mega budget, just some flower bed and a few snaps squeezed in before the sun went down.
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The paint might have peeled off (fell off) around the corrosion but on the rest of the frame its well and truly adhered and super tough – almost to the point that progress is sole destroyingly (if that’s a word) slow – But I’m winning even if the use of Nitromores feels more like I’m tackling the job with one hand tied behind my back. Plenty applied – left for two to three hours and even then the paint still needs gentle persuasion with the use of a Stanley knife blade and wouldn’t simply fall off, reckon Trek used Kryptonite infused Yellow Paint as its only the base coat that melts with stripper
Best part of a tin of Nitromores later and we’re almost there, had I not seen it neon yellow I’d be inclined to polish the bear metal and go super shiny silver and matt black Carbon.
In between stripping I thought I’d have a go at breathing new life into some equally old and period parts – naturally RS1’s up front would have been the way to go, but since this is more of a low budget build using parts I’ve already got, some old Manitou 1's will do as a stand in and period correct substitute.
Having acquired these forks with the Yeti Ultimate years ago they were just put to one side and – “from the get go” I was told by the previous owner and curator of a well know Yeti fan website “They are stiff and I’ve given up getting them to work” without too much credence put in those words I spent the next few evenings stinking the kitchen out with metal polish polishing the hell out of them whilst waiting for new elastomers. (although I've missed one brake boss)
And here’s where this story went downhill ………. One Mofo long allen key later I pulled them apart, well actually I had to refit the steerer to remove each leg and pull like F*** to get the out. The melted/sticky mess gluing / holding everything together wasn’t there, only one elastomer had properly gone west the rest were knackered but in one piece
Proper clean and grease up and they went back together but were they tight, as tight as 27.2mm post in a 27.0mm frame, with dinosaur technology going on inside they came apart two or three more times before finally I too gave up - and waved the white flag and posted a plea for help.
and thanks to collective know how and a general discussion on what it couldn't be we got down to what it could be
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=395125
The paint might have peeled off (fell off) around the corrosion but on the rest of the frame its well and truly adhered and super tough – almost to the point that progress is sole destroyingly (if that’s a word) slow – But I’m winning even if the use of Nitromores feels more like I’m tackling the job with one hand tied behind my back. Plenty applied – left for two to three hours and even then the paint still needs gentle persuasion with the use of a Stanley knife blade and wouldn’t simply fall off, reckon Trek used Kryptonite infused Yellow Paint as its only the base coat that melts with stripper
Best part of a tin of Nitromores later and we’re almost there, had I not seen it neon yellow I’d be inclined to polish the bear metal and go super shiny silver and matt black Carbon.
In between stripping I thought I’d have a go at breathing new life into some equally old and period parts – naturally RS1’s up front would have been the way to go, but since this is more of a low budget build using parts I’ve already got, some old Manitou 1's will do as a stand in and period correct substitute.
Having acquired these forks with the Yeti Ultimate years ago they were just put to one side and – “from the get go” I was told by the previous owner and curator of a well know Yeti fan website “They are stiff and I’ve given up getting them to work” without too much credence put in those words I spent the next few evenings stinking the kitchen out with metal polish polishing the hell out of them whilst waiting for new elastomers. (although I've missed one brake boss)
And here’s where this story went downhill ………. One Mofo long allen key later I pulled them apart, well actually I had to refit the steerer to remove each leg and pull like F*** to get the out. The melted/sticky mess gluing / holding everything together wasn’t there, only one elastomer had properly gone west the rest were knackered but in one piece
Proper clean and grease up and they went back together but were they tight, as tight as 27.2mm post in a 27.0mm frame, with dinosaur technology going on inside they came apart two or three more times before finally I too gave up - and waved the white flag and posted a plea for help.
and thanks to collective know how and a general discussion on what it couldn't be we got down to what it could be
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=395125
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So, Potato Man, a carbon Trek now is it?
Let me tell thee a story of Marvel!
I've posted here about my first 'real' MTB, but never the Story of my second, version 2.5.
I believe it was 96 that I'd just got my first part time job at the age of 16 (yeah, I'm a lot younger than a lot of you) and saved my pennies hard for many months to purchase my next bike, from Merlin Cycles (the mail order company). T'was a fine beast; Basic alloy frame and rigid forks, but some of you may remember they managed to get pretty decent bits on them including hope wheels, xt grouppo etc.
Stonking bike, raced XC (badly) and downhill (V. badly) on it.
About a year later, I was in my LBS, and glanced up at the framesets they had hung from the ceiling. Among them was a Trek 8700 in all it's purple goodness!
It was the 1994 model, second hand, £250. It took me a few more months to save for it.
Superb bike, and totally indestructable, as this was the late 90s and it soon became my jump bike. I sold it a few years later, complete with the original fork, a mint set of original Judy XCs and a set of england cartridges for about £75!!!
I miss it.
Let me tell thee a story of Marvel!
I've posted here about my first 'real' MTB, but never the Story of my second, version 2.5.
I believe it was 96 that I'd just got my first part time job at the age of 16 (yeah, I'm a lot younger than a lot of you
) and saved my pennies hard for many months to purchase my next bike, from Merlin Cycles (the mail order company). T'was a fine beast; Basic alloy frame and rigid forks, but some of you may remember they managed to get pretty decent bits on them including hope wheels, xt grouppo etc. Stonking bike, raced XC (badly) and downhill (V. badly) on it.
About a year later, I was in my LBS, and glanced up at the framesets they had hung from the ceiling. Among them was a Trek 8700 in all it's purple goodness!
It was the 1994 model, second hand, £250. It took me a few more months to save for it.
Superb bike, and totally indestructable, as this was the late 90s and it soon became my jump bike. I sold it a few years later, complete with the original fork, a mint set of original Judy XCs and a set of england cartridges for about £75!!!
I miss it.
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Sadly I no longer have my ‘modern prometheus ‘ kit. The faraday cage is still working beautifully though.Retro Spud":2asngfbt said:
Re:
I read your thread with interest because :
- I've got the same interest about those cool old carbon Trek (I've got a 8700 in nice condition and a 8900 Which need restoration)
- I did the same job on my first 8700 frameset : stripping gel coat and trying to respray the neon color with splatters
I used the same technic with a cutter blade for stripping the Gel coat. It was easy and the carbon wave was clean. For the lugs and rear triangle, all was fine until making the neon orange. But for splatter, I tried several solution but I never made the good splatters. So, I could find a nice 8700 frames and give up the first frame. And for the 8900, I think I will remove the Gel Coat but will make nothing on the yellow part.
Hope that you got solution
I read your thread with interest because :
- I've got the same interest about those cool old carbon Trek (I've got a 8700 in nice condition and a 8900 Which need restoration)
- I did the same job on my first 8700 frameset : stripping gel coat and trying to respray the neon color with splatters
I used the same technic with a cutter blade for stripping the Gel coat. It was easy and the carbon wave was clean. For the lugs and rear triangle, all was fine until making the neon orange. But for splatter, I tried several solution but I never made the good splatters. So, I could find a nice 8700 frames and give up the first frame. And for the 8900, I think I will remove the Gel Coat but will make nothing on the yellow part.
Hope that you got solution
