Exposed cable vs Fully housed

[Imlach]

So, I mostly work on older frames and I'm pretty used to the semi exposed cables when routing to brakes or derailleur, but having had a few more modernish frames where I run the cables fully housed from lever/shifter to brake/derailleur, tightened down with zip ties, I've got to ask: are there any benefits to the semi exposed wires using the welded cable stops?

Only thing I can think of is that the cable stops prevent movement which could potentially mess with adjustment. But apart from that, isn't full housing better? Less chance of dirt messing up stuff.

Do any of you run full housing on retro frames that were designed for semi exposed cable?

 

[KermitGKona88]

So, I mostly work on older frames and I'm pretty used to the semi exposed cables when routing to brakes or derailleur, but having had a few more modernish frames where I run the cables fully housed from lever/shifter to brake/derailleur, tightened down with zip ties, I've got to ask: are there any benefits to the semi exposed wires using the welded cable stops?

Only thing I can think of is that the cable stops prevent movement which could potentially mess with adjustment. But apart from that, isn't full housing better? Less chance of dirt messing up stuff.

Do any of you run full housing on retro frames that were designed for semi exposed cable?

I run a lot of older frames with full rear outer, I think it was a California thing that lots of companies followed, in the mud and murk of other countries I think full outers are preferable.

 

[Imlach]

I run a lot of older frames with full rear outer, I think it was a California thing that lots of companies followed, in the mud and murk of other countries I think full outers are preferable.

What do you do for securing the housing on retro frames?

 

[Frankenorange]

Converted mine a few months ago. Personally got fed up chopping up long lengths of cable into little bits that might only suit that one bike. That and some short bits end up with inline adjusters so even more joins.
Depends on where the guide stops are welded/riveted on but i reckon you can just about get into most of them with a drill bit that leaves a little material thatcan be removed with a round needle file. Mask off the tube if you fear marking it with a chuck. I didn't have a dremel to hand but that is probably the safest way unless the bit bounces around.
It works as it should, there are less places for water/mud/dirt to get into, with full length cable, and makes cabling up alot faster. Also cuts down on those "that could do with being 1/2 inch longer" moments. Worth doing if it isn't a rare frame, or catalogue build.

 

[Frankenorange]

What do you do for securing the housing on retro frames?

You can buy guides/stops from frame building places that can be brazed/riveted on. Where the cable just needs guiding you can get guides that have adhesive backs so you stick them on the tubes. Not used the latter though.

 

[Joe*Pro]

I’ve been wondering the same. The JMC FSR 1994 i was trying to replicate, looked to me to have full outer rear derailer cable cover, but I can’t quite see if it goes all the way or part way and then I was wondering why and how best to fix, ended up half and half and looks/works ok it seems.

I chose tiny zip-tie to the cable boss.

 

[KermitGKona88]

What do you do for securing the housing on retro frames?

They have brazed on cable guides, but you can get various clips, is this for the Ti beast?

 

[Imlach]

They have brazed on cable guides, but you can get various clips, is this for the Ti beast?

Ti beast allows me to route full housing into the stops luckily so no problem there, but was wondering for my other frames.

 

[KermitGKona88]

 

[KermitGKona88]

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