Disc brakes - Hope Mono - tell me more, I need to learn

ishaw

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Right, long story short, a few drinks removed some inhibitions and I decided that my STS needed to at least have a go at disc brakes. It has been a few years since I have used disc brakes (Hayes stroker trails or something), and my spending has scored me some hope brakes, courtesy of barneyballbags (some wheels too :oops: ).

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When I had my old brakes, I dabbled with bleeding them (seemed to do a better job than my LBS too at much lower cost), but I have long since forgotten how to do this and what kit I will need (and I will need it, as the brakes will need a bleed when I get them).

So, could someone point me in the right direction of the tools, kit and fluid I will need to sort these out, plus let me know how it is done (I'm sure there is a guide somewhere, I have not looked yet as I wanted to get the basics out of the way first).

I also want to swap out the bore caps to match the bike (blue) from gold - anyone know a good source for these, what size I need, how easy it is to do and what, if anything I will need to do once I have swapped them out?

Kind of looking forward to further modernising the STS, though it will have meant I needn't have swapped over the lowers on a brand new set of fox forks to ones that had v studs, so anything anyone can impart than can help me get these on, that would be great.

Also, anyone know how easy it is to swap out the bearings on a hop pro 2 rear hub? Got that task to do at some point in the future, so might as well do that before fitting.

I'd like to try and get the bike finished before I have knee surgery, so that I can take it for a spin once I am recovered enough - will give me something to look forward to ride, not that I don't like my other steeds, I just haven't had a chance to put the STS through it's paces, so still excited about giving it a proper ride.
 
First off, the bleeding procedure on Hope brakes couldn't be easier, you don't need any of these fancy bleed kits, all you need is an 8mm ratchet spanner, a T-10 torx and a bottle of DOT 4 or 5.1 brake fluid. I always use DOT 4. Also get a couple of old rags to wrap around the caliper while doing the bleed to soak up the excess fluid as it is pushed out of the caliper, obviously a brake bleed kit would have a tube and container to catch the excess fluid as it is bled from the brakes but I never use one as the amount of fluid is always minimal.
I use a ratchet spanner because I find it easier to locate it on the bleed nipple while carrying out the bleed.

Stand the bike on a level surface and position the brake lever on the bars so the fluid reservoir is level too.
Remove the two screws from the reservoir cap and remove cap & diaphragm.
Remove dust cap from bleed nipple on the caliper.
Top up the reservoir with brake fluid before starting the procedure and make sure the reservoir is kept topped up during the bleed.
To start the bleed loosen the bleed nipple using the ratchet spanner with one hand and then with the other hand pull the brake lever slowly & smoothly fully back to the bar grip and while holding the lever in that position flip the ratchet spanner over and tighten the bleed nipple. Only once the nipple is tight can you let go of the brake lever.
If you let go of the lever before the nipple is tight you will end up sucking air back into the brake hose.
Repeat this procedure until all air is removed from the system and you are getting a steady flow of fluid from the nipple with no bubbles.
Top up the reservoir with fluid and replace the diaphragm by inserting one end of it into the reservoir and kind of rolling it into position allowing the diaphragm to displace brake fluid as it sits into the reservoir thus removing any air bubbles between the surface of the fluid and the underside of the diaphragm.
Refit the reservoir cap and screws and caliper dust caps.
Wipe off any brake fluid that has spilt onto the brake lever & caliper.
 
Regarding the Pro2 rear hub rebuild, I've just done this for the first time too and it was fairly easy once I had managed to remove the drive side QR adapter which wouldn't budge at all and I ended up destroying it to remove it. The QR adapters should just pull off the axle as they are only held on by a rubber seal but I think the drive side on mine must've been corroded.
I also did the freehub bearings and replaced the pawls & springs while I had everything apart which adds 10 minutes to the job and is worth doing at the same time.
Hope do a specific tool kit for removing & installing the bearings which I decided to buy but you can use specific size sockets to remove/install the bearings.
This is the Hope hub tool kit which contains drifts to remove the bearings and supports to place the wheel on while knocking the bearings out: http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/42 ... plete.html

I used this guide: http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/ma ... ervice.htm
 
Thanks, this all looks like I can easily get back on board with all of this modern technology.
 
Tbh, I think getting a perfect set-up with hydraulic brakes is easier than setting up cantilever brakes, so much easier ;)
 
Re:

If you have a look on the Hope website there are video guides on bleeding the MonoMini and Mono M4 brakes.
They use proper Dot brake fluid, not mineral oil.
All I needed to bleed mine was the fluid, a short length of clear plastic hose, and a container to hold the old fluid that came out of the hose.

Those Hope brakes have to some of the simplest to work on, way easier than Avids, and definately easier than setting up Canti brakes!
 
Keep the tin of Dot fluid closed as it absorbs water. I used the handle of a screwdriver to tap the lever, line and caliper to help get little bubbles out. I took the wheel off, took the pads out and put in a spacer so as not to contaminate anything with my hamfisted maintenance attempts. Flicking the lever also helps with this. I also recommend jimo746's advice to have a look at Hope website specifically the how to videos. Otherwise, 1210tech's advice is spot on in my experience. I was new to this last year and can confirm it's pretty basic. Get into it! I can't believe I paid the lbs to do this for me until I wised up thanks to RB.
 
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