Dent free Dave Yates Barn find, with issues (Pg5)

[Retro Spud]

Re:

Crikey how many replies, thanks for all your thoughts/comment

before systematically removing / binning all the crap and saving the Suntour parts I sat on it and reckon it'll fit me just fine although I wouldn't want it to be any smaller,s o that's the first box ticked,

there doesn't seem to be any other hidden nightmares and the only bubbled paint appears on the now knackered seat tube.
However the Bottom bracket is seized, so before it gets a bit of persuading its having a good soak in penetrating oil from the inside out.

and the Flex stem is also seized despite the wedge being free, so that'll get a good soak soon.


I've dropped Dave Yates an email along with a few pics of the tube, and the serial number hopefully he'll have some background information on it, or at least give me a year, I'm thinking 1992

 

[NeilM]

Re:

From the welded dropouts on the fork legs (531), I'd say earlier.

See what Dave says.

 

[xxnick1975]

But does seem to be a top pull front mech. Does it have a rolller on. The seat tube?

When did Max come out? 90/91?

 

[Retro Spud]

But does seem to be a top pull front mech. Does it have a rolller on. The seat tube?

When did Max out? 90/91?

Yeah compared to my Yeti its got a really subtle roller on the back of the seat tube.

As for year I'm guessing this is a 92 model purely based upon the saddle which I'm assuming is original and marked 1991.
Obviously Suntour Xc pro pre dates this but since I don't have the original back wheel or shifters I've no idea if it was 7 or 8 speed.

 

[jazzibizznizz]

My heart literally sank when I saw the pic of the broken tube. But, as has been said plenty of times, it cost you next to nothing so it's no great loss really.

For what it's worth I'd get it fixed. (And it has the potential to be worth a heck of a lot!)

 

[legrandefromage]

Smoke paint is very easy. I'll ask 'someone' about the seat tube too

 

[legrandefromage]

'Dit di dit dit dit di dit dit dit'

News just in from a decent frame builder:

Well, in the interests of keeping as much of the original paint as possible, I'd strip the paint around the crack and braze on an extended lug/sleeve to reinforce it. Never like messing with unbrazing a tube from a fillet brazed BB shell.

Also, the Max OR seattube, with a 0.6mm wall (27.2 post in a 28.6mm tube) is no longer available, just the 0.5mm wall road tube. 27.4mm seattube

 

[Retro Spud]

Re:

Thanks for input LGF very helpful, if a little alarming

I've dropped a email to Dave so I'll await a reply from the main man along with a breakdown of cost(s) and to be honest I've got my hopes pinned on him
having suitable tubes on the shelf, weather he does or not remains to be seen but I'm sure I'll get clear advise either way.


Now I've stripped and cleaned a few ruff diamonds before but I'm still in awe of the greasy grime on this bike,





The Girvin was so seized in the steerer that it couldn't be persuaded and fearing (more damage) to the frame it ended up being the fall guy in order to separate the front end from the frame.






Although it never been in question that the forks are original, I found this little gem when the steerer tube was on the bench,






# 5502 same as the number stamped on the frame

 

[retrobikeguy]

despite the letdown of the crack I think its still viable to get it sleeved/brazed or tube replaced in full, Espescially if it was free, imagine if you'd paid £250 for it and then found that! wouldnt worry about the paint so much, yeah its a shame to see it go but it'll feel like yours if you have to choose new clothes for it...... not all the origiallity can always can be saved :!:

Mine should be back from paint soon, similar frame and RC30 up front too

 

[sinnerman]

Pace steerer tube marked and designated to frame /head tube length/ I.D numbers for theft.

I'm with Retrobikeguy too, new clothes if poss, too cool a frame not to treat it now.