AFAIK the first 'compact' road frames were built by Dave Lloyd in the early 90s - funnily enough called Concept 90. I came close to getting one for myself. Mike Burrows subsequently 'borrowed' the idea and flogged it to Giant - the rest is history. Colnago also made a few one-offs for the likes of Tony Rominger about 92/93 featuring 650c wheels - but you'll struggle to find one and prices would be astronomical. I'd certainly check out the bike fit calculator and see what dimensions suit you - 'virtual top tube' dimension is the one that's critical - allows you to compare traditional or compact frames
another road newbie annoying sizing question....
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Iwasgoodonce
Old School Grand Master
I recently rediscovered my build plans drawn up by the chap who put my bike together. I too have the proportions of an ape being 6' with an inside leg of 29" and an arm span of 6'6".
I always used to ride a 23.5" which Mik Kowall said was too large. I ended up with a 56cm frame with slightly slacker angles giving a longer top tube. The drawing (like me) is an odd shape but I will endevour to scan it.
I always used to ride a 23.5" which Mik Kowall said was too large. I ended up with a 56cm frame with slightly slacker angles giving a longer top tube. The drawing (like me) is an odd shape but I will endevour to scan it.
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Iwasgoodonce":3js58vzz said:
keen to see that. although my arms are less ape like, its my torso which seems weirdly long... same diff though I guess?
bikenut2010
Senior Retro Guru
bike fit
Hi I have long torso / short leg proportions also, it's not uncommon; couple of points to mention; is the standover height you quoted in bare feet of wearing shoes with your cleats? that will make a difference, clearly. You can compensate for reach using a combination of stem length and seatpost setback; also , some saddles will have shorter adjustable area on the rails, so pick something you know you can move back as far as possible without hitting the bend on the rail, a lot depends on the seatpost angle here so I would really recommend a bike fit and advice on frame geometry prior to busting open the piggy-bank!
Hi I have long torso / short leg proportions also, it's not uncommon; couple of points to mention; is the standover height you quoted in bare feet of wearing shoes with your cleats? that will make a difference, clearly. You can compensate for reach using a combination of stem length and seatpost setback; also , some saddles will have shorter adjustable area on the rails, so pick something you know you can move back as far as possible without hitting the bend on the rail, a lot depends on the seatpost angle here so I would really recommend a bike fit and advice on frame geometry prior to busting open the piggy-bank!
Re: bike fit
Careful with the stem and layback option. A long stem will make your steering a bit on the slow and floppy side. Moving the seat back effectively slackens your seatpost angle which will not only tighten your hip angle but reduce the efficiency of your pedalling. Remember, over the bracket is faster. So both together is not ideal, but one or the other is a disaster. No only do you suffer from the problems I've mentioned, but your weight will be distributed all wrong which will do the handling a whole lot of no good.
bikenut2010":zwu543te said:
Careful with the stem and layback option. A long stem will make your steering a bit on the slow and floppy side. Moving the seat back effectively slackens your seatpost angle which will not only tighten your hip angle but reduce the efficiency of your pedalling. Remember, over the bracket is faster. So both together is not ideal, but one or the other is a disaster. No only do you suffer from the problems I've mentioned, but your weight will be distributed all wrong which will do the handling a whole lot of no good.
bikenut2010
Senior Retro Guru
fit
huh, thanks for that.... i am 5'8.5" with a 31" inseam, I ride a Rossin and Olagnero steel with conventional geometry; both 54 ct-ct; both seatposts are 25mm setback Laprade and saddle height is 72 cm from saddle top to centre BB, nose of saddle ( both Rolls) to front of bars is 53/54 cm.
my new Cervelo is the same but great saddle to bar reach 56 cm so maybe more power if i move it forward a tad? Have to say I've been a bit uncomfortable with the more 'aero' position of the flat topped bars, and i'm logging times on the steelies just as fast as the Cervelo which has a frame half the weight and almost twice the gear length options to play with ( long live columbus maybe??? :-D )
all advice warmly welcomed!
ps bike pics here....
http://velospace.org/node/28364
http://velospace.org/node/30982
http://velospace.org/node/31019
huh, thanks for that.... i am 5'8.5" with a 31" inseam, I ride a Rossin and Olagnero steel with conventional geometry; both 54 ct-ct; both seatposts are 25mm setback Laprade and saddle height is 72 cm from saddle top to centre BB, nose of saddle ( both Rolls) to front of bars is 53/54 cm.
my new Cervelo is the same but great saddle to bar reach 56 cm so maybe more power if i move it forward a tad? Have to say I've been a bit uncomfortable with the more 'aero' position of the flat topped bars, and i'm logging times on the steelies just as fast as the Cervelo which has a frame half the weight and almost twice the gear length options to play with ( long live columbus maybe??? :-D )
all advice warmly welcomed!
ps bike pics here....
http://velospace.org/node/28364
http://velospace.org/node/30982
http://velospace.org/node/31019
I've always found that if your current mount fits you the easiest way to size a new bike is to go for the same dimensions on your new bike. I would expect that the Cervello probably has steeper angles so shifting the seat forward may not be the best option. Check this by dropping a plumb line from the nose of the saddle and checking the horizontal distance from that line to the BB centre. If the saddle is already further forward with relation to the BB than it was on your old bike moving it even further forward will likely make the bike feel even more alien to you.
Some people make the mistake of assuming that because some dimensions are the same between two bikes then all the dimensions will be the same. Just because the saddle to bar distance and seat height are the same it does not necessarilly follow that other dimensions are the same.
A few years back I moved from a Vernon Barker frame to a Langster (the original model) even though the angles were different I actually aped the angles of my old bike on the new one by changing the seat and bar positions. Having got used to the bike that way I then found that marginally tweaking matters towards the way the bike's designer had intended worked very nicely indeed. If I'd jumped straight in at the deep end I think I would have felt uncomfortable on the bike and that would have put me off it.
The other thing that's important when changing your setup is to change one thing at a time. Too many people will adjust saddle height and fore and aft postion, bar height and stem length all at the same time. Do that and you can't tell what is making the difference.
Some people make the mistake of assuming that because some dimensions are the same between two bikes then all the dimensions will be the same. Just because the saddle to bar distance and seat height are the same it does not necessarilly follow that other dimensions are the same.
A few years back I moved from a Vernon Barker frame to a Langster (the original model) even though the angles were different I actually aped the angles of my old bike on the new one by changing the seat and bar positions. Having got used to the bike that way I then found that marginally tweaking matters towards the way the bike's designer had intended worked very nicely indeed. If I'd jumped straight in at the deep end I think I would have felt uncomfortable on the bike and that would have put me off it.
The other thing that's important when changing your setup is to change one thing at a time. Too many people will adjust saddle height and fore and aft postion, bar height and stem length all at the same time. Do that and you can't tell what is making the difference.
bikenut2010
Senior Retro Guru
fit
seems I have some sorting to do as i sized the steelies from the cervelo!
I'm going to check plumb line from knee bone to pedal axle on the cervelo and see where it's bisecting...
big thanks...may be a trip for a refit on the horizon; all frames are size 43, the Cervelo RS is a more 'sportive friendly' geometry...
seems I have some sorting to do as i sized the steelies from the cervelo!
I'm going to check plumb line from knee bone to pedal axle on the cervelo and see where it's bisecting...
big thanks...may be a trip for a refit on the horizon; all frames are size 43, the Cervelo RS is a more 'sportive friendly' geometry...
bikenut2010
Senior Retro Guru
size 54!!!!
:shock:
:shock:
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