1990 Specialized Rock Hopper Resurrection
- Thread starter KayOs
- Start date
Repacker
Specialized Fan
Backpedaling... (Shimano/Tioga pedal restoration)
Ok, so in the renovation sticky thread, a link to rjsdavis's excellent how to service thread was posted; https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/shimano-pd-m731-bearing-service-how-to.336402/ I initially said it was great but in the wrong place as it’s a service thread not a "renovation/restoration"...
www.retrobike.co.uk
Guinessisgoodforyou
Retro Wizard
Nice restoration, those pedals have removable cages though. The LX don't. Hence the modified socket to undo the locknut.Backpedaling... (Shimano/Tioga pedal restoration)
Ok, so in the renovation sticky thread, a link to rjsdavis's excellent how to service thread was posted; https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/shimano-pd-m731-bearing-service-how-to.336402/ I initially said it was great but in the wrong place as it’s a service thread not a "renovation/restoration"...
Guinessisgoodforyou
Retro Wizard
Looks great 
KayOs
Dyna-Tech Fan
Yes with pleasure
First, I cleaned the frame normally with soapy water and dried it. Then I used a cloth and some WD40 to remove grease and glue residue as best I could. I then removed what still stuck with this plastic power cleaner. It is basically an abrasive paste but for plastic surfaces and therefore not as aggressive. It does not scratch the paintwork.
I then brushed the rust spots with a rust converter from the DIY store and let it work for about half an hour. When they have turned black, you can simply wipe away the excess rust converter with a little elbow grease.
Finally, I applied a polish for heavily weathered lacquers to the entire frame and polished it with a cloth (old T-shirt).
This polish has a fine grain for sanding and at the same time contains wax for sealing.
You can repeat this step until the result is satisfactory.
First, I cleaned the frame normally with soapy water and dried it. Then I used a cloth and some WD40 to remove grease and glue residue as best I could. I then removed what still stuck with this plastic power cleaner. It is basically an abrasive paste but for plastic surfaces and therefore not as aggressive. It does not scratch the paintwork.
I then brushed the rust spots with a rust converter from the DIY store and let it work for about half an hour. When they have turned black, you can simply wipe away the excess rust converter with a little elbow grease.
Finally, I applied a polish for heavily weathered lacquers to the entire frame and polished it with a cloth (old T-shirt).
This polish has a fine grain for sanding and at the same time contains wax for sealing.
You can repeat this step until the result is satisfactory.
