1988 Merlin

timoshenko":16mbbxqf said:
albatros38":16mbbxqf said:
Nice project !
#281 (81) could be a 1989 one (60-139) ;)

Hi,

That serial number summary on Ashok's page didn't make sense to me for the very early years. If you look at the bike galleries though, it's got serial numbers and dates which correlate better with my frame. For example, #250 listed as an 1988 nad it has the u-brake on the chainstays like mine. #296 also listed as an 1988 has the U-brake moved from the chainstays up to the seatstays.

Perhaps you could choose between Roller-cam bosses on seat stays or chainstays :D
 
Nice early frame. Good luck with your project.

I just finished my 89 which started much like yours. I have an IRD expedition fork and was going to go with a full IRD package, but decided against it because that fork is just so noodly. So, I'll put the rest IRD stuff on something else.
 
Nice early frame. Good luck with your project.

I just finished my 89 which started much like yours. I have an IRD expedition fork and was going to go with a full IRD package, but decided against it because that fork is just so noodly. So, I'll put the rest IRD stuff on something else.
 
mkozaczek":1o137qcs said:
. I have an IRD expedition fork and was going to go with a full IRD package, but decided against it because that fork is just so noodly.

The Ti Expedition or the Aluminum Expedition?
 
Progress









Frame: Merlin Titanium (Serial Number 281, Refinished, Decals from gil_m)
Fork: IRD Expedition Aluminum

Headset: 1" WTB-Chris King GreaseGuard (needs a replacement top nut)
Stem: 1" IRD Macaroni
Handlebar: Merlin Titanium
Grips: ODI Attack (will be replaced with Magura Ergo modified similar to WTB)

U-Brakes: BR-M730 (booster plates needed)
Brake Cables: Shimano housing with Wheels Mfg Ferrules

Shifters Levers: Deore XT SL-M730
Brake Lever: DiaCompe Tech 5
Front Derailleur: XT FD-M730
Rear Derailleur: XT RD-M730 (long cage to be replaced with a short cage)
Derailleur Cables: Shimano with Wheels Mfg Ferrules
Freewheel\cassette: XT CS-M730 (will be replaced DuraAce 7sp freewheel)
Chain: Shimano HG90
Cranks: FC-M730 , 175mm (will be replaced Cooks Quality Products)
Bottom Bracket: Phil Wood Titanium axle + Phil Wood bearings

Hub Skewers: XT M730
Rims: Mavic MA40, 32H
Hubs: XT M730, 32H (will be replace with WTB Greaseguard, 32H, black)
Tires: Timbuk II from FirstFlight

Saddle: Selle Italia Turbo
Seatpost: IRD 27.2x300 (shaft needs to be re-anodized in black)
Seatpost Clamp: XT M730

The front U-Brake is currently mocked up but it looks it will workable in the final configuration. Some new pivot sleeves will need to be fabricated as the current ones are for cantilevers. A booster is also needed to prevent to pivot brackets from wanting to rotate on the legs under hard braking. As mocked up the rear arm of the U-brake clears the fork crown by about an 1/8". The fork needs some refinishing as well.
 
tidy as always. just make sure you get those QR levers on the proper side. ;)

i know you're trying to match the photos from the review, but those puny downtube Merlin decals look so awkward.
 
RockiMtn":1xu8bho0 said:
tidy as always. just make sure you get those QR levers on the proper side. ;)

i know you're trying to match the photos from the review, but those puny downtube Merlin decals look so awkward.

I assume you're referring to the front and seatpost levers. The fork drop-out clashes with the lever so it's on the right-hand side so it can be positioned towards the back. The position of lever on the seatpost QR is my preference from back in the day. When I ran it in the position rearward, I ended up snagging my riding shorts when getting moving back into the saddle. Positioning it forward solved the problem.

The down tube diameter is fairly small. If the decals were larger they would just wrap underneath.
 
the seat binder i'm okay with, but the wheel QRs being on different sides would bother me. :LOL:

not saying that decal should be any larger, it's just not a decal/logo designed appropriately for the downtube. looks like it's been slapped
on just for the sake slapping it on. they should have put that on the top tube if anywhere.
 
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