Disk mount adapters for non-disk frame. (DIY)

Im set on modding my frame now. Ive just finished cutting off the canti studs's. Next I'm going to drill and tap M10 threads so canti studs can be put back later if I decide to run V's in the future. In the meantime I'll fit a some of these:

350__1_hope-fork-hose-G-med.jpg


Ive checked inside the part that carries the brake boss and there's plenty of material to drill it out and tap M10 threads. I thought about cutting off the whole thing but decided against it. I don't fancy all that filing to get the welds flush with the frame, and worried that I would take too much material off the seat-stays and weaken them.

Waiting for my A2Z 'parallel to is' mount now. Then I can get on with modding it and get it welded or brazed on. After that its paint time! Then I can build her up and go riding!! :)
 
velomaniac":17q7weiv said:
Just Checked its a Woodman Disco brake adaptor costing $87 what ever that is in pounds of the realm excluding shipping and tax.

Looks like it reduces your rear dropout width by 10mm, so you'll either need a 126mm spaced road hub, or one of their own conveniently dimensioned rear hubs:

http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-5098 ... apter.aspx

There's always this as well for only £25:

http://www.supercycles.co.uk/site_detai ... ductID=333

Dr. Matt...
 
Little update.

I finished drilling out the rear mounts ready for an M10 x 1.5 thread. I couldn't tap the thread yet as my M10 tap is worn.

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This was quite easy to do actually. I used a junior hacksaw to carefully cut off the canti bosses nice and flush. Taking it easy with the saw and letting the blade do the work. After that I tidied up with a file to get everything nice and flat. There was already a hole about 5mm so I drilled that out to 7mm with my 24v cordless. Then chamfered the hole with a 45deg countersink. Then went trough again with a 8.5mm bit. Cleaned up edges with the countersink bit. Care should be taken not to damage the seatstay when the drill pops through the last part of the hole, and I had to go really easy taking my time to ensure I kept the drill square to the flat area.
 
This is a very interesting thread
I like the idea of welding/brazing a disc mount on,id love to do it myself but its a Ti frame and would no doubt cost a fortune :?

I'm going down the old torque arm to the brake boss route,with the weird hope calliper.Not the best ,but its strong enough for a 165 disc and it does have the retro look i like :cool:

Strange that cutting edge disc systems are now looking at a floating calliper braced onto a brake boss and the majority of frames no longer have them
:LOL: :LOL:
 
The A2Z mount arrived today so I placed the whole wheel/rotor/caliper assembly on the frame to se how it lines up with the seatstay.

The rear brake is for a 140mm disk and I'm still waiting for that to arrive in the post. So in the meantime I used the 160mm rotor from the front brake. This basically means the caliper will be a little bit closer to the chainstay when I set it up for the proper size rotor. I wont start working on the mount proper until I have the 140mm rotor (waiting for postie) so I can be sure it all fits ok.

Looking at this mock-up though it seems the A2Z will be perfect once I cut off the mounting flange and shape it up to sit nice on the stay Pics below, please let me know what you think guys.

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EDIT: If anyones considering doing a simmilar mod to a steel frame I found a US company that sell ready made disk mounts:

http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/storename/paragonmachineworks/ViewDept-261299.aspx

I particularly like this one as its got an extended section so no 'seat to chain stay' brace is needed:

P10_BR2009_1.JPG
 
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