Under geared?

-=Mint_sauce=-

Dirt Disciple
Seems that upon jumping back on my bike for a bit, either I have developed extraordinary thigh muscles or just that I'm used to it now....

I can be in highest gear possible and it isnt too much hard work.

Now the chainset I have is stc rc, so would I be able to just change this for a chainset with larger rings? I'm running a roadie set of sprockets on the rear......

Are they micro drive?

I keep saying I have a 94 Kona, it appears it is actually a 95! sorry for confusion, only just found the catalogues!
 
I can be in highest gear possible and it isnt too much hard work.

I wish I could say that :roll:

seriosly though....stx-rc chainset will have a 42? big ring and the cassette an 11 or 12 sprocket so that's good for around say 40mph with a decent cadence.......

my point being, I built a bike up for a non-cycling friend with ATB gearing, ie a 46 big ring, and he had a similar complaint........"I've got nothing to push against"......."try pedalling at more than 30rpm" I replied :twisted:

are you a big gear masher?

optimal cadence is 60-90rpm apparently :cool:
 
Um, big gear masher, pretty much i'm afraid. far too unfit to cycle at that sort of cadence yet.

Doorman and ex rugby player tho so plenty of weight to push pedals with!

Persevere with it and just work on a acheiving higher cadence?
 
Persevere with it and just work on a acheiving higher cadence?

Yep.....think Lance Armstrong albeit not quite that fast.......if you can master spinning a higher cadence it's much more efficient :D

it'll take a while to master but stick at it.
 
-=Mint_sauce=-":mlitwk3g said:
I'm running a roadie set of sprockets on the rear......

Are they micro drive?
Road cassettes often have a 12t or 13t sprocket at the small end, and 42:13 is quite a low top gear. Swapping the cassette for something with 11-up will give you a bit more top end.
 
one-eyed_jim":9uq9kl5l said:
Road cassettes often have a 12t or 13t sprocket at the small end, and 42:13 is quite a low top gear. Swapping the cassette for something with 11-up will give you a bit more top end.
Oui, c'est vrai.

On all my bikes, not one of them uses 'modern' compact. They all use old skool ATB, with a 46 or 48 big ring. There is a reason XTR shied away from going compact for so long. . .
 
STX-RC is a 5 arm compact (Hyperdrive-C)

Middleburn sell these up to 48 tooth size.


I used to run a 48/11 setup, now I have a pants 44/11 (44 is what shimano now use as the standard for their 4 arm rings)
 
It appears I am starting to get the hang of this!

If I try and keep the pedals spinning at a sensible rpm, in top gear, I seem to make better progress than if I was to stand up and thrash the bike.

I'd still like to increase the size of the outer ring, would 4 teeth (44 to 4:cool: make such a difference?

Forgive me for such stupid questions, it's been probably 13 years since I was heavily into mountian bikes! (had a Kula, hence the Kona fascination)

Any other tips for almost 30 something very unfit wannabe cyclists trying to get back into it?
 
-=Mint_sauce=-":168xy0fv said:
..Any other tips for almost 30 something very unfit wannabe cyclists trying to get back into it?

Why not just put a stereotypical view of the RetroBike Massif there. Though add a + after the 30 as apparently some are really old on here ;)


Count your bottom cassette sprockets number of teeth it maybe an easier way to go by dropping that to 12 or 11 if it'll take it. Maybe cheaper as well.

It'll be 42 you have now so 42 to 48 will make a difference.

If you don't use clipless pedals, maybe invest in some, they make pedalling and spinning easier. (opinions vary, but that depends on what you're doing).
Spinnings easier as you can pull up as well as push down and eventually will have a continuous circle under power. You can do it with clips&straps to an extent but they need to be so tight for it to work well. No clips and you have to angle your feet to grip the pedals on the up stroke which I never found comfortable or nice to my feet, also it's not as smooth.

Though I will warn you that you'll not be able to walk if you do it after not cycling for a long time and suddenly some muscles get used
:oops:
 
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