1995 Gazelle Titanium Pro Sort of Retro-Mod-Rat-Rod Build

Have just done a deal on a ratty looking 1995 Gazelle Titanium Pro frame. Apparently it's the same frame as the Raleigh MT2000. I'm quite excited having never ridden a TI frame.

So despite having a shed full of bits and planning this as a limited spend build I've obviously started buying more bits for it.

Plan is to go non-precious in terms of spec or era, but maybe a bit weight weenie. I'm thinking a 1x9 build with V-brakes. The Shiteanium?



Forks are the first big question. Wondering where the sensible compromise lies in terms of weight vs ride vs cost. One option would be to rebuild and fit a pair of Indy SLs I have. They are currently sat on my C16R and a bit crap at the moment as they bottom out. I have some nice RC36s to go on the C16R so the Rockshox will be spare. They are very light...

I also have some Manitous knocking about - Bulge FS and SX-R, both a bit cranky although the SX-Rs are doing alright on the Kona Hahanna on which they are currently mounted. I don't think either are exactly in weight weenie territory.

Any other suggestions for lightweight/cheap/worth riding forks? Maybe I should go rigid/carbon. Not sure I fancy that though.

Oh and what about taking the paint off this and having it bare titanium. The paint's shot anyway. Nitromors? Or leave alone? Hmmm...

Gotta love a new build.

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I'd be tempted to out a bit if effort in and remove the paint. You can then decide if you want shiny or Matt style finish and polish accordingly. I've got a few ti frames and never understood why you'd paint one, as bare finish looks great (and saves a few gms). Both my hard tails have pace carbon rigid forks, look and ride well, light too. I have had suspension forks too, but in a frame of that vintage you'd want shorter travel, 80mm max I'd say.

V brakes are always a step forward imho. Touring will be a bit funky on yours due to the cable stops being on the wrong side. It can be done easily enough, or better yet, find a set of brakes where you can swap over the noodle mount (Paul's, avid ultimate, onza are a few options, as are prg which are Paul's copies, I'm lucky enough to have one of each, and have used them to great effect on the same frame you have, well a Raleigh taurus).

Whilst you might want to do a cheap build, a ti frame deserves more, and you'll probably not regret it. Build it with what you can, then upgrade as you grab bargains.

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ishaw":2eqxv3e4 said:

Whilst you might want to do a cheap build, a ti frame deserves more, and you'll probably not regret it. Build it with what you can, then upgrade as you grab bargains.

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You're right, of course. Which is probably why I've already started splashing more than I should on bits I don't really need.

At least not being precious about cosmetics and period correctness means I can go for good bits that work rather than obsessing about getting everything just so. Pace forks would be nice.

I think I will have a go at removing the paint. Will see how much of a fight it's going to give when the frame arrives.

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Driveside chainstay looks rust coloured? Or is it just muck?

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foz":hlfqbdk4 said:

Driveside chainstay looks rust coloured? Or is it just muck?

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Seller's pic - I haven't actually seen it in the flesh. I'm hoping/assuming the latter as there shouldn't be any steel there to rust!

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Thank you mr postman. An XTR RD-M951 rear mech. Not minty but feels super-slick in my hands. Non original (Tacx) jockey wheels so it's obviously done a few miles. It's slightly weird being a rapid-rise mech so the shifting is back to front. That'll be a bit of fun. And it looks OK on the scales too.

Re: Scruffy TI build - don't hold your breath

Early SID's, Judy SL's and Manitou SX Carbons all ride OK for retro forks, the early SID's probably the best. Slightly later but far better are Marzocchi Z2 Flylight Air's.

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foz":26g9aqm0 said:

Driveside chainstay looks rust coloured? Or is it just muck?

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I thought that too. Could just be from where a rusty chain has sat, but.....

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It’s the same frame as the first version of the Raleigh Torus:

Cable guides on side of top tube,
Canti studs,
Cable hanger,
Drops-outs without the hole,
Larger welds than later versions which look like arc welding,
Ribbed single cable guides
Only one drain hole in the BB shell(?)
No extra rivnut above the BB shell.

Think that’s it.

It’ll be fairly roughly blasted underneath the paint I expect.

Re: Scruffy TI build - don't hold your breath

Frame is just dirty. I know because i sold it. I hope this gets the love it deserves.