WTD - Wheel building kit

Milese

Dirt Disciple
I'd like to give wheel building a go so am after some bits to help

Jig
Tension Gauge

Let me know if you have anything.

Cheers.
 
if youre just going to try wheelbuilding, I would say you dont need any of those
hanging the bike by its bars or saddle from a doorframe and using the bike itself, with the brakes as guides will replace the jig
reversing the wheel as youre building will replace a centreing gauge
never used a tension gauge??

of course, once youve decided its for you, you will want the proper tools

just tryin to save you money matey
 
Wheelbuilding/truing - Every cyclist should have a go.

I did it for years using a frame or forks plus bits of tape and pencils for a wheel jig, then bought a cheap commercial jig that wasn't much better than the frame and forks etc. Recently bought this book:

http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

and made the jig and other tools described in it. I made them all from bits of wood etc. I had lying around, except for some bolts and wingnuts. The wooden jig is far better than the commercial one I had; easier to use and more stable.

The book is well worth the £9 or so it costs. It'll save you that in costs and inconvenience during your first couple of builds.
 
robc02":3slyi9d3 said:
Wheelbuilding/truing - Every cyclist should have a go.

I did it for years using a frame or forks plus bits of tape and pencils for a wheel jig, then bought a cheap commercial jig that wasn't much better than the frame and forks etc. Recently bought this book:

http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

and made the jig and other tools described in it. I made them all from bits of wood etc. I had lying around, except for some bolts and wingnuts. The wooden jig is far better than the commercial one I had; easier to use and more stable.

The book is well worth the £9 or so it costs. It'll save you that in costs and inconvenience during your first couple of builds.

I Agree with this - An Excellent book and well worth the money.

Tension gauges not the cheapest thing and obviously need to be accurate / calibrated.

I usually ask my LBS to go over the ones I build as a check and they charge not a lot of money at all for it.

A dishing gauge is probably the most useful item you should look for.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I've got a few sets I plan to build so thought if I can get the bits cheap enough it would make it easier.

I've ordered a dishing tool, only £18.

I appreciate that the tension gauge is a bit of a 'nice to have' but if I could get one cheap....

I'll have a look for that book, but there is plenty online to get me started!
 
Milese":8d6wddtb said:
Thanks for all the replies.

I've got a few sets I plan to build so thought if I can get the bits cheap enough it would make it easier.

I've ordered a dishing tool, only £18.

I appreciate that the tension gauge is a bit of a 'nice to have' but if I could get one cheap....

I'll have a look for that book, but there is plenty online to get me started!

That book is easy to read and it gets you started quickly. It removes that whole 'its witchcraft' and just points out it's mechanics. For the money its really good and also buying the book gives you some of the online video's that the writer did. Its a nice thing to build your wheels and ride them.

One thing that really rings true is that if you follow the instructions the wheels just work and you aren't messing around with them after every ride.

I think the 1st wheel I did was under tensioned and I really noticed it - re-reading a few things and chucking the wheel at the LBS just sorted out some of the logic for me and improved what I was doing.

Its also quite a nice thing to do - esp if you are thinking of doing radials, 2,3,4 cross and so on.

Was a good bit of learning and I appreciated it a lot.
 
According to Roger Musson (Wheelpro author), the most common problem amongst beginners is under tensioning. It certainly was with mine - and with a number of "professional" builds I have come across.
However, if you've built them yourself its not so much of an issue to tweak them now and again.
Since using Roger's methods my wheels have been tighter and remained true.
As regards tension meters, they work by deflecting the spoke, so small variations in thickness between batches can have quite a marked effect on the reading obtained. (This is discussed in some detail in the book). They are mainly useful for checking that tensions are equal, rather than absolute tension. The plucking method is also remarkably sensitive and very much cheaper than a tension gauge!
 
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