Whyte PRST-1 - this is going to take a while...

[lalülala]

So, i imported this from the UK, i had to have it ever since i learned about it's existence.





After one of the first rides - the pedal fell off... Cross threaded. And it made some pretty bad noises whilst riding. So I took it into the shop, and well - it's got some more issues.



The famous bearing is completely buggerd beyong any saving. I replaced it with a PB10a bearing, this looks like it was specially made for Whyte back in the day.



Whilst pulling the rear Hope hub apart to rebuild - I found a snapped axle. Luckily they are available and reasonable cost.

This is at least easy to fix, but I am glad I found it.

These are the easy fixes for this bike. However - it has more major issues which are going to be difficult to adress... Lets start with the rear dropouts:



Adjusters are wound in almost all the way and broken, threads for the lock nuts are stripped. I can't find any real reason as to why that is, all parts look fine. And with wear you'd expect to have to extend the adjusters out. Anyways - that's major issue number 1.

Bring on major issue number 2: the fork. It's twisted.



I was hoping it's just a crooked handle bar, but the fork is clearly twisted in itself. I can't find any crash evidence, I don't know if this is just bad fabrication on Whyte's part of if they are of a weak design. Whyte has not yet responded to my mails.

And last but not least - of course! The frame & rear damper mount are cracked on both sides.



At this point I am not sure how of if to proceed. The frame can get welded. The dropouts - I can make longer extenders on the lathe. But the fork - I am not sure how to proceed here. Finding a replacement seems impossible.

It's a cool bike, it rides fantastic - if anyone has any spare fork they don't need - I am willing to exchange it for some of my hard earned cash.

 

[novocaine]

the fork could be trued (it's already fucked, you can't make it any worse) with bit of mechanical effort and a jig. not an unusual activity to do on an aluminium frame. the drop outs are annoying but fixable. they look to be twisted by about 3 degrees, well within fixable (I'd be fine up to about 6-8 degrees of twist I think, although I have nothing to base that amount on for this style of fork).

from the shop you are working in, you obviously have a bit of mechanical knowledge so it maybe possible to do it in house. Give me a lever and place on which to stand my fulcrum and I will move the world.

 

[Totoro]

Always wanted to own one of these, never even rode one but seen a few about. If I had room for a full sus then this would probably be it but they do give me the fear slightly.

Good luck

 

[lalülala]

I once was told that an old fully is a money pit. I start to believe this now.

I got a quote for welding the frame, not cheap but reasonable. Not sure how to proceed with the fork, but I think i will go for a modest annealing and bend it back. The biggest concern i have with this is that it will crack when bending.

And whilst throwing money at it - might as well add a pair of Hope M4s to it.

 

[novocaine]

I once was told that an old fully is a money pit. I start to believe this now.

I got a quote for welding the frame, not cheap but reasonable. Not sure how to proceed with the fork, but I think i will go for a modest annealing and bend it back. The biggest concern i have with this is that it will crack when bending.

And whilst throwing money at it - might as well add a pair of Hope M4s to it.

don't anneal it, the aluminium is well within it's ductile state to allow that amount of correction. annealing it will destroy the fork which I think is 6061 so heat treated.

out of interest, can you mount a hub and then measure again, as with an axle in and locked in place some of the twist will be pulled out.

 

[just jacques]

There are some nos prst 4 forks @£50 on ebay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167439684383

 

[lalülala]

Oh wow - thank you so much!! I would have missed this. Thank you!!

 

[lalülala]

Back on the road. With the PRST-4 fork. Which has - interestingly - a reinforcement welded to the top.









Due to some incomprehensible design choices on Whyte's part, I'm runing a 160mm Deore rear break and the M4 with a 180mm disc on front. Cassette was increased to 34 tooth rear, kept the original tooth count chain rings. Which does give it quite the climbing capability!

And now the rear damper decided it's done holding air... Back into the workshop. Oh well...