Whyte PRST-1 - this is going to take a while...

[lalülala]

So, i imported this from the UK, i had to have it ever since i learned about it's existence.





After one of the first rides - the pedal fell off... Cross threaded. And it made some pretty bad noises whilst riding. So I took it into the shop, and well - it's got some more issues.



The famous bearing is completely buggerd beyong any saving. I replaced it with a PB10a bearing, this looks like it was specially made for Whyte back in the day.



Whilst pulling the rear Hope hub apart to rebuild - I found a snapped axle. Luckily they are available and reasonable cost.

This is at least easy to fix, but I am glad I found it.

These are the easy fixes for this bike. However - it has more major issues which are going to be difficult to adress... Lets start with the rear dropouts:



Adjusters are wound in almost all the way and broken, threads for the lock nuts are stripped. I can't find any real reason as to why that is, all parts look fine. And with wear you'd expect to have to extend the adjusters out. Anyways - that's major issue number 1.

Bring on major issue number 2: the fork. It's twisted.



I was hoping it's just a crooked handle bar, but the fork is clearly twisted in itself. I can't find any crash evidence, I don't know if this is just bad fabrication on Whyte's part of if they are of a weak design. Whyte has not yet responded to my mails.

And last but not least - of course! The frame & rear damper mount are cracked on both sides.



At this point I am not sure how of if to proceed. The frame can get welded. The dropouts - I can make longer extenders on the lathe. But the fork - I am not sure how to proceed here. Finding a replacement seems impossible.

It's a cool bike, it rides fantastic - if anyone has any spare fork they don't need - I am willing to exchange it for some of my hard earned cash.

 

[novocaine]

the fork could be trued (it's already fucked, you can't make it any worse) with bit of mechanical effort and a jig. not an unusual activity to do on an aluminium frame. the drop outs are annoying but fixable. they look to be twisted by about 3 degrees, well within fixable (I'd be fine up to about 6-8 degrees of twist I think, although I have nothing to base that amount on for this style of fork).

from the shop you are working in, you obviously have a bit of mechanical knowledge so it maybe possible to do it in house. Give me a lever and place on which to stand my fulcrum and I will move the world.

 

[Totoro]

Always wanted to own one of these, never even rode one but seen a few about. If I had room for a full sus then this would probably be it but they do give me the fear slightly.

Good luck

 

[lalülala]

I once was told that an old fully is a money pit. I start to believe this now.

I got a quote for welding the frame, not cheap but reasonable. Not sure how to proceed with the fork, but I think i will go for a modest annealing and bend it back. The biggest concern i have with this is that it will crack when bending.

And whilst throwing money at it - might as well add a pair of Hope M4s to it.

 

[novocaine]

I once was told that an old fully is a money pit. I start to believe this now.

I got a quote for welding the frame, not cheap but reasonable. Not sure how to proceed with the fork, but I think i will go for a modest annealing and bend it back. The biggest concern i have with this is that it will crack when bending.

And whilst throwing money at it - might as well add a pair of Hope M4s to it.

don't anneal it, the aluminium is well within it's ductile state to allow that amount of correction. annealing it will destroy the fork which I think is 6061 so heat treated.

out of interest, can you mount a hub and then measure again, as with an axle in and locked in place some of the twist will be pulled out.

 

[just jacques]

There are some nos prst 4 forks @£50 on ebay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167439684383

 

[lalülala]

Oh wow - thank you so much!! I would have missed this. Thank you!!