What paint?

[Elev12k]

I plan to paint 3 bikes. 1st the WTB. The experience from the project I would like to apply in giving the YETI a RAL5018 colour ...and finally I want a Grove worthy paint for the Hard Core Of course I know only 1 address for that (Rody@Groovy)

1st the WTB: I want a DEEP gloss black. The lower section of the forks I want in a grey/silver tone. The decals have to have the matching grey/silver colour.

I called a specialized bicycle painting company today. I asked them how they build up the coats:
1st - epoxy layer with rust preventive features (according to them)
2nd - the black, wetpaint I understood (I asked for wetpaint)
3rd - a powdercoated clear

Anyone got an opinion on this?

Powdercoated clear better or worse than 4 layers of wet clear ???

When the do the cleaning they will do it with glass and not with sand. I don't want sand.

They -probably- will be able to reproduce the all decals.

Please give your thoughts. Own comments?

 

[john]

I plan to paint 3 bikes. 1st the WTB. The experience from the project I would like to apply in giving the YETI a RAL5018 colour ...and finally I want a Grove worthy paint for the Hard Core Of course I know only 1 address for that (Rody@Groovy)

1st the WTB: I want a DEEP gloss black. The lower section of the forks I want in a grey/silver tone. The decals have to have the matching grey/silver colour.

I called a specialized bicycle painting company today. I asked them how they build up the coats:
1st - epoxy layer with rust preventive features (according to them)
2nd - the black, wetpaint I understood (I asked for wetpaint)
3rd - a powdercoated clear

Anyone got an opinion on this?

Powdercoated clear better or worse than 4 layers of wet clear ???

When the do the cleaning they will do it with glass and not with sand. I don't want sand.

They -probably- will be able to reproduce the all decals.

Please give your thoughts. Own comments?

Sounds like a nice project, tastefully thought out as ever Melvin.

Although I've heard of clear powdercoat I wasn't aware it could be applied to paint - thought powdercoat could only be applied to bare metal. Interested to hear how it compares to regular laquer.

 

[cchris2lou]

Powder is stronger i think so should be better in the long term .

 

[billinjah]

as long as you use enough clear then you will be better off than getting it pc'd. as for a DEEP gloss black go with house of kolor its the ultimate deep black!

 

[Dr S]

Good timing- I'm experimenting with powdercoat this week. Its much much tougher than wet paint but the limit is colours. Black should be no problem but wet paint has a better depth and shine. A wet paint base colour with a powder laquer would be the ultimate if it works- must try it out. I've been mixing colours and adding metalics today, also putting metalic washes over solid colours- some cool results, some not so cool.

On the subject of paints- the Mipa rep came round the workshop today trying to interest me in the new VIP range of Mica pearl metalics. Some of the greens are absolutely mind blowing, much better than anything House of Color do. Only problem it is a 3 coat system ( base colour, pearl mica coat and a special laquer) and the price. £295 plus VAT per litre just for the middle coat! :shock: :shock: :shock:

S

 

[Elev12k]

Hello,

Thanks for your responses

That powdercoat only sticks to bare metal is also what I understood. This makes me wonder why they want to put the powder coat on top several other layers. Hm.. :? Still hoping someone can shed light on the process described in my 1st post.

Btw in my 1st post I forgot to mention they put it in an oven at about 160 celcius or so.

A regular powdercoat:
I find aesthetics very important. That is one reason I will not go for a regular powder coat. Moreover rust prevention capabilyties are pretty limited. That is why I am not of the opinion that a regular powder coat is more durable. What do you prefer: Lasting frame or lasting paint? For me the 1st.

To fight future rust with powder coat: A company nearby is capable in giving the steel a special threatment (electrogalvanize, where Porsche and Audi were famous for) before they apply the powder coat. For that the frame has to be 100% clean and there need to be sufficient drain holes so the surplus can go out. My frames aren't 100% clean (rust preventives, tiny bit rust etc) and I needed to drill quite a lot additional holes if they were clean. So no regular powder coat for Melvin.

A positive of the regular powder coat is of course the price point. Moreover I understood that powder coat is thick at the edges, where wet paint is thin. Less pleasing for the eye, but with wet paint the edges are most vulnerable. Fortunately the transitions on the WTB are way smooth