Threaded Headset - How to

SouthCoastRetro":2os3nxfz said:
I'm attempting this myself this week but am unsure about bearings as it's an old XT Evo sized headset (M735) so the bearings are loose.

Any pointers...?

bikepro
M730 series

SHIMANO 730 SERIES "OLD" DEORE XT HEADSET
The Deore XT headset uses a stainless steel lower bearing cup and race. The lower bearing assembly is subject to most of the impacts and shocks so it is wise to make it of better material. The upper race and cup are made of steel. Each of the exposed steel pieces is painted Black. The bearing surfaces on all pieces are well cut, however, the upper cone race has a painted surface. The head lock nut is Black anodized aluminum with a small snap ring on the inside, to fasten the stem seal, which is recessed in the headlock nut. There are fitted seals to keep contaminants out of the upper and lower assemblies. The style of the seals is identical to the Tioga "triple seal". This headset uses heavy duty ball bearings in retainers that are pre-greased (sixteen 1/8" diameter in the 1", eighteen 1/4" diameter in the 1 1/8", and twenty-two loose 5.5mm diameter in the 1 1/4" size), it's almost overbuilt! The XT headset comes in three diameter, 1", 1 1/8", and 1 1/4". It weighs 110 grams in the 1", 182 grams in the 1 1/8" and 172.5 grams in the 1 1/4" size. The 730 was replaced by the 740. We sold the 1" size for $34.99, the 1 1/8" for $39.99 and the 1 1/4" for $56.99
 
Agency_Scum":1z39q67y said:
2. get in a Tardis with a grease gun, go back in time and GREASE THE DAMN CUPS BEFORE YOU FIT THEM! ( my record is two and a half hours lamping the crap out of Ritchey WCS headset cups that were fitted dry and had welded themselves in ).

Amen. Had that very problem this weekend, it me took an hour of soul-searching and hurling abuse at a bottom cup before it decided to shift. That feeling when it hit the floor was worth it though.
 
Agency_Scum":38eznz4d said:
3. Lots of grease ( NOT that white lithium crap ) everywhere; clean off the excess later.

I recommend Castrol LM bearing grease from Halfords. About £6 per bloody great tub that lasts for freaking ages!! Slap in as much as possible - the excess will find its way out leaving the right amount in there after a few miles on the trails :)
 
Is it sods law that I just bought a tub of that lithium grease just last weekend? Balls.

Is it actually usable though as I'm not hitting any trails it's just for pootling around on?

Also, the headset is NOS out the box, the cups are installed so all I'm thinking of doing is assembling and fitting it all (including crown race).
 
SouthCoastRetro":320tqy71 said:
Is it sods law that I just bought a tub of that lithium grease just last weekend? Balls.

Is it actually usable though as I'm not hitting any trails it's just for pootling around on?

Also, the headset is NOS out the box, the cups are installed so all I'm thinking of doing is assembling and fitting it all (including crown race).

The white lithium grease is good for almost all applications on a bike other than wheel and headset bearings. For these you will want a specific bearing grease which performs better with bearing applications. There is, I think, also something to do without washout properties, but I can't remember off the top of my head. I am sure that the more learned members of the forum will be able to tell you in more detail the advantages of proper bearing grease :roll:
 
I wrap the hexagon with electrical tape before tightening to prevent it getting marked. I don't like scabby looking nuts. :)
 
Thanks for the tips. Once my proflex is roadworthy again (well, trailworthy) I shall be starting to take apart the Marin. I am secretly hoping that once I have undone the headset I can keep the handlebar/stem/brakes/shifters setup as one complete unit, just disconnecting rear brakes& gears leaving loose cables.

PS: I don't like scabby looking nuts either - we are still talking about bikes, yes? :D
 
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