Echoing a few, the fact you're the original owner and it's served you so well, you've got the permission from the RB Gods to give it some proper TLC: new tube, new paint, the lot 
The grim reaper came to visit me, Roberts content, be strong...
- Thread starter Seca Blue
- Start date
One other question is what it's made from. 531 and 753 cannot be welded as they are Mn-Mo not Cr-Mo. That's probably why you have to let in a new tube.
I think this is a head v. heart sort of decision. Head would say new frame, heart says repair. Neither is wrong!
I think this is a head v. heart sort of decision. Head would say new frame, heart says repair. Neither is wrong!
It's Max OR which is Nivachome Steel. I've never had anyone suggest it can't be welded and I've already been quoted for a replacement seattube, but I guess it might be different to weld an existing in situ tube as a repair - I can't answer that yet.
I tell ya, that's quite a coo isn't it. I thought you'd all be horrified at the idea.Echoing a few, the fact you're the original owner and it's served you so well, you've got the permission from the RB Gods to give it some proper TLC: new tube, new paint, the lot
But, I'm not remotely decided either way yet.
I like riding an old bike, something that's always been just mine, that's different to the usual stuff I see when I'm out, but I was 18 when I got it, and now I'm not, so I probably would find a new frame a lot more suited to me now.
It is a stiff ride, but everything else I've ridden feels a bit ponderous by comparison so who knows...
The only certainty is that I don't currently have a suitable bike to ride...
Nivachrom isn't CroMo either https://www.framebuilding.com/Tubing Materials.htm
Fine to let in a new tube and do new filet brazing, but I wouldn't know if a re-welded repair in the crack area is possible.
Would be good to get Winston Vaz to repair it. He probably built the bike in the first place. His brother Keith can also paint it if needed.
Their pricing looks very reasonable - tube replacements around 150 quid, resprays starting from 130 quid.
Starting price for a brand new custom built frame is 1,400 quid, so it will be cheaper to get your frame repaired.
Their pricing looks very reasonable - tube replacements around 150 quid, resprays starting from 130 quid.
Starting price for a brand new custom built frame is 1,400 quid, so it will be cheaper to get your frame repaired.
My condolences. My custom frame failed in the same place. Was an easy decision for me though, as the frame was five years old and still in its 15 year warranty. Paint was also a single colour and not the wonderful finish you have. In the end I went for a different colour for the re spray and changed some components to mark its rebirth.
Your frame needs a proper inspection. You don’t know how far that corrosion spreads. No way of knowing if can even be fixed safely. Get that checked then it’s decision time.
If it was me, I’d get the tube cut out and replaced. There are companies that can reproduce the original paint finish. It’s up to you to ride it and get that patina back. Not a cheap option though.
I wouldn’t trust a simple repair if you have any intention of riding it in anger.
I don’t envy your decision.
There was an article on NSBM last week on similar vein.
https://nsmb.com/articles/the-bike-of-theseus/
Your frame needs a proper inspection. You don’t know how far that corrosion spreads. No way of knowing if can even be fixed safely. Get that checked then it’s decision time.
If it was me, I’d get the tube cut out and replaced. There are companies that can reproduce the original paint finish. It’s up to you to ride it and get that patina back. Not a cheap option though.
I wouldn’t trust a simple repair if you have any intention of riding it in anger.
I don’t envy your decision.
There was an article on NSBM last week on similar vein.
https://nsmb.com/articles/the-bike-of-theseus/
bikeworkshop
Retro Guru
The seat tube could be patched with a brazed-on sleeve, you'd only lose the bb area paint so could touch it up.
It would not be invisible.
The question is, where will it break next?
Just above the bb like this is common due to water in the shell. Likewise the bb end of the stays - and these might also be in poor condition for the same reason.
High quality stays will eventuality rust through.
If you sent it to a builder for repair, especially those guys mentioned previously familiar with the specifics, they will tell you what's the best course of action. repair, modify or replace.
I had a horrific crash in 2004 on my c1988 longstaff 531c fillet brazed beauty
, and sent it for new top and down tubes at Argos Racing Cycles here in Bristol.
They got back to me with the info that the chainstays were just too thin to be trustworthy any more.
My brother's from new, mine since 95, well used but always well cared for.
Nothing lasts for ever, but we can almost always get more out of it.
It just doesn't always make sense.
Then again, people buy broken frames for a surprising amount of money - i imagine they do an amateur repair and get the frame they wanted for 1/5 the price?
It would not be invisible.
The question is, where will it break next?
Just above the bb like this is common due to water in the shell. Likewise the bb end of the stays - and these might also be in poor condition for the same reason.
High quality stays will eventuality rust through.
If you sent it to a builder for repair, especially those guys mentioned previously familiar with the specifics, they will tell you what's the best course of action. repair, modify or replace.
I had a horrific crash in 2004 on my c1988 longstaff 531c fillet brazed beauty
, and sent it for new top and down tubes at Argos Racing Cycles here in Bristol.They got back to me with the info that the chainstays were just too thin to be trustworthy any more.
My brother's from new, mine since 95, well used but always well cared for.
Nothing lasts for ever, but we can almost always get more out of it.
It just doesn't always make sense.
Then again, people buy broken frames for a surprising amount of money - i imagine they do an amateur repair and get the frame they wanted for 1/5 the price?
Lot's a good views.
Personally, I've considered an immediate in-situ fix but have concluded that:
- it's too good to be left on the wall or relegated to the school trip
- it's too good to have a ropey looking fix - meaning unmatched paint etc.
- It's too good to not have a thorough investigation into it's general health before I do anything else
- There are few little changes I'd make anyway if doing it properly - reverse the seatclamp for one so it doesn't collect all that crap
So, based on the above I think I'll strip it down, and Winston will be getting something in the post to see what's what.
I do wonder what a nice new hardtail would be like though, but I know where that would end up cost wise....
Personally, I've considered an immediate in-situ fix but have concluded that:
- it's too good to be left on the wall or relegated to the school trip
- it's too good to have a ropey looking fix - meaning unmatched paint etc.
- It's too good to not have a thorough investigation into it's general health before I do anything else
- There are few little changes I'd make anyway if doing it properly - reverse the seatclamp for one so it doesn't collect all that crap
So, based on the above I think I'll strip it down, and Winston will be getting something in the post to see what's what.
I do wonder what a nice new hardtail would be like though, but I know where that would end up cost wise....
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