Stripped Crank Thread - Not Pedal Thread 🙁

As Edmund Blackadder once said:

"Satan farts in my face once more!"

I have sadly stripped though not the whole thread on my Dura Ace drive side crank arm, not the pedal thread 🙁

I forgot to remove the washer and the crank puller kept going around and around until tiny slithers of aluminium revealed themselves to me as I cleaned it up.

I am slightly deflated...looking closely there is some of the thread intact but the "peaks" have been squashed or removed. The crank puller still screws in though.

Q. Is there anything I can do to remedy this? Is it possible to use a thread restoring file?

Then I knocked one of my bicycles over, then I sulked for a bit, then my back played up, etc.

I have had better days...
If you are in the UK,I have a kit to insert helicoils into the crank removing threads that'll get you back into action.
It's a permanent solution.
Please PM me for details if interested.
 
Dang

Indeed I think most of us have done it

The nicest repair is to helicoil

BUT

will cost 35-50 at a machine shop
although check first since it is a blind hole which makes things a little more complex

on replacement crank
I have just looked at secondhand prices
ouch
I've got the kit to do it - Cyclus make the requisite tooling and we work on enough vintage material where the extractor threads are worn / damaged that it made it worth us investing a few years ago - we've done several.

Another option is to re-tap for the larger, oversize TA removers, which we are also kitted out to do. VAR make a suitable remover, which we can supply, if required. I have known "mechanics" (desperados might be a better term) with a steady hand (and a very long spanner) force the oversize remover in without re-tapping, if the entry to the threads is stripped (so that the extra diameter is available to start the remover thread but it's better to re-thread properly, obviously.

UK Retro-istas, if they need either service, are welcome to PM me ...
 
I've got the kit to do it - Cyclus make the requisite tooling and we work on enough vintage material where the extractor threads are worn / damaged that it made it worth us investing a few years ago - we've done several.

Another option is to re-tap for the larger, oversize TA removers, which we are also kitted out to do. VAR make a suitable remover, which we can supply, if required. I have known "mechanics" (desperados might be a better term) with a steady hand (and a very long spanner) force the oversize remover in without re-tapping, if the entry to the threads is stripped (so that the extra diameter is available to start the remover thread but it's better to re-thread properly, obviously.

UK Retro-istas, if they need either service, are welcome to PM me ...
excellent!
 
It's off and it's taunting me lol

..... put it back on?

🤔 ;) 👍 🤪

Seriously, why did it need to come off? To replace the BB?

I'm fully in the @elite504 camp - not worth tooling up nor repairing.

A damaged crank arm is either good bolted to the bike still doing it's job, or for the tip IMHO.
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/tinkerers-corner-very-stubborn-crank-removal.428183/

Probably can buy a whole old road bike with Dura-Ace cranks for about £10 in todays market.

Call me weird. :p
 
..... put it back on?

🤔 ;) 👍 🤪

Seriously, why did it need to come off? To replace the BB?

I'm fully in the @elite504 camp - not worth tooling up nor repairing.

A damaged crank arm is either good bolted to the bike still doing it's job, or for the tip IMHO.
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/tinkerers-corner-very-stubborn-crank-removal.428183/

Probably can buy a whole old road bike with Dura-Ace cranks for about £10 in todays market.

Call me weird. :p
You're weird😜
As Woz says the crank is fine when it's fitted. Easy enough to remove with no thread. Fit and forget.
 
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