Stove enamelling vs powder-coating

[fingers]

My RTS was painted by Bob Jackson and I is amazing.

The front is metallic blue and has an amazing glitter and clarity and seems very tough

The rear triangle is still perfect...

I would never powder coat, but then I like poncy metallics etc..

 

[KeepItSteel]

What process do bicycle manufacturers use?!

Surely we should be trying to replicate the process used by the people who design and build the frames?
I imagine the majority of bikes are stove enamelled from the factory? in which case, why arent these finishes 'soft' and easily chipped?
Or are they applying 2-pack?

I find this argument quite confusing as there seems to be no right answer. Expensive stove enamelled jobs (apparently) chip far too easily, powder doesnt have the same depth of colour and a limited pallet, and no-one seems to know about 2-pack?

In my humble opinion 2-pack is the way to go, but this doesnt seem to be easily available in a walk-in bike friendly basis.
Im tempted to go with Windridge for my frame as the start to finish process on their powdercoats seems very intensive and good value, but im a little concerned that I wont be fully satisfied with the powder 'look'...
Stove enamelling looks superb, but the last thing I want is to go to the trouble and expense of a respray, only to go on a couple of rides and see my nice finish chipping away.

 

[mikesnowdon]

Just found this on 2 pack:


http://www.austinsevenfriends.com/paint.htm


Not had time to read the whole thing yet but here is a little quote:

Two-pack, Twin Pack, or ‘2K’ as it’s sometimes known, is a type of automotive paint which has been around for years now, replacing the old cellulose, and is widely used on both production cars and in modern repair bodyshops.

So, the Advantages and Disadvantages? The biggest problem with cellulose is in the thinners - with up to 50% of its’ sprayed volume evaporating, you actually need to apply a lot of coats to get a decent final build-up of paint. But because Two-Pack only contains a tiny amount of thinners, what you spray is what you get when the paint has finally cured, leading to far less wastage.

When Two-Pack has cured it is also much harder than cellulose and tends to resist petrol, acid rain, sunlight etc. much better than cellulose, which oxidises and goes dull over a long period, or even develops a milky haze.

On the other hand, Two-Pack is strictly a ‘professional-only’ product. The hardener contains isocyanate, which is extremely toxic if breathed in, and expensive spray-booths and air-fed breathing apparatus must be used. Cellulose of course doesn’t require this; a simple filter mask will do.

As far as classic car work is concerned, Two-Pack is a godsend. Because the primer also contains little thinners, several coats can be used-to build up a heavy layer, which can eliminate the need for primer-fillers and spray putty when your body panels are not 100% flat.

 

[drystonepaul]

Just to put in my 2p worth.
I'm a fan of powder-coating for pretty much any bike which requires a tough, durable single colour finish. I've had bikes stove-enamelled in the past, before I found out about powder-coating. I don't think that there would be many occasions where I go back to enamelling.
As previously mentioned, powder-coating is generally much tougher and long lasting, and depending on the quality and experience of the powder-coater, has just as attractive a finish as wet paint.
If you select a gloss finish at the powder-coaters then it's just as lustrous and shiney as a wet paint finish in my opinion, but with all the benefits of durability.
Plus the fact it's generally much cheaper to do a powder-coat, wins hands down.

There now follows a picture:

 

[jezrider]

after reading this i think powdercoating may be the way to go for me, i am too clumsy to have a fragile finish!
one question though, is there still scope to lacquer over the stickers when powdercoating? As this appealed to me with a painted finish.

 

[drystonepaul]

after reading this i think powdercoating may be the way to go for me, i am too clumsy to have a fragile finish!
one question though, is there still scope to lacquer over the stickers when powdercoating? As this appealed to me with a painted finish.

I was talking to my local powder-coaters a few days ago with this very question. He reckons that the best option is to powder-coat first, then apply decals and then do a wet spray on laquer such as 'clearcote' over the top.
You could in theory get a clear powder-coat applied over the decals, but the chances are they would melt and distort while the frame goes back into the curing oven at 180-200degC.

 

[FluffyChicken]

What process do bicycle manufacturers use?!

No idea but I do know the brand of paint my bike was painted with Dupont Imron back in ~1991. If you know what that is then you can tell me

Seems tough, didn't chip. Scratched and scrapped and has worn out over the 16 years so there is not much left Though saying that the stickers still have the lacquer coat over them. Though it didn't really chip (to me that's, knock it with an edge and a small chip of paint comes off all the way to the frame)

 

[jezrider]

I was talking to my local powder-coaters a few days ago with this very question. He reckons that the best option is to powder-coat first, then apply decals and then do a wet spray on laquer such as 'clearcote' over the top.
You could in theory get a clear powder-coat applied over the decals, but the chances are they would melt and distort while the frame goes back into the curing oven at 180-200degC.

Just checked the Windridge website - cracking site that explains the process very well, and they say exactly what you have pointed out - however they also say that due to decals melting they no longer apply them, might have to call them tomorrow and try and persuade them otherwise!

 

[KeepItSteel]

I was talking to my local powder-coaters a few days ago with this very question. He reckons that the best option is to powder-coat first, then apply decals and then do a wet spray on laquer such as 'clearcote' over the top.
You could in theory get a clear powder-coat applied over the decals, but the chances are they would melt and distort while the frame goes back into the curing oven at 180-200degC.

Just checked the Windridge website - cracking site that explains the process very well, and they say exactly what you have pointed out - however they also say that due to decals melting they no longer apply them, might have to call them tomorrow and try and persuade them otherwise!

dont do it! high temp + solvents in laquer will melt your (presumably) non-standard/non-nos decals.
I have just got hold of my first powder coated frame, the finish is lovely, really really impressed with it. I can imagine it would look a little 'thick' over any intricate welds that you wanted exposed, but it also seems much harder wearing judging by the drop outs an the frame and fork.
My advice - go for a simple colour, nothing too fancy, and add different colour custom made decals whenever you feel like a change of colour.
My CinderCone has a set of Gil's decals on it, and all I can say is, thank God for Gil... they are brilliant.

 

[jezrider]

fair enough, i heard that a normal paint lacquer will not melt them but i guess stickers getting chipped is the least of my worries - just replace them.
You will have to bear with me - i am new to this forum - but addicted already!, so how do i get hold of Gil? I need some stickers !!