Slipping Rear Axel

[one-eyed_jim]

There's a similar thread here:

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=872961

I think the problem's mostly a combination of the forward-sloping dropout, a weak skewer, and the design of replaceable derailleur hanger. The skewer bites unevenly on the lip of the hanger, and slips under load. The axle may also be a touch too long, but it's hard to tell from your picture.

I'd try a good steel Shimano skewer done up tight, with the little springs removed to rule out interference with the axle end. If there's evidence the axle protrudes beyond the dropout face, that needs to be corrected.

If that doesn't work, you could remove the derailleur hanger and file it until the face is no longer flush with the outer face of the dropout itself. That should give the skewer a better bite of the frame.

 

[DubDuck]

Thanks for all the advice. I picked up a new steel QR and put it on without the springs. It's slipping much worse.
The derailuer hanger is just barely recessed and the axle is recessed a bit. So I can't see anything that would foul up the QR and prevent it from cinching down.
I shouldn't have to tighten the quick release within inches of it's life though.
Is this a common problem at all?
What do you think about drilling a hole and installing a lock type washer with a hook on it?

 

[FluffyChicken]

Have you got a full picture of the Q/R's used ?

I'd sort the dropout out, the frame has metal removed, smooth it all down to one level and file the dropout hanger down a bit too it's correct depth.

What's the inside and other drop out like.


No a Q/R should be and easy tighten up (assuming a good shimano one, cheap external cam type are often harder).

 

[DubDuck]

I need to try a new shimano XT QR. I'll have to pick one up tomorow.
The other drop out looks fine. No slipage there.

 

[FluffyChicken]

Get a better skewer.

I fit slips with one of these

you can rule out the scewer as the problem.

the problem I'm seeing is it's not clamping against the frame but just into the hard steel of the replaceable dropout. probably from over tightening or previous slippage wearing the frame away.
If there isn't enough area to clamp against then it'll slip.

 

[unkleGsif]

Has nobody also considered whats going on on the other clamping face? There are two sides after all!

In one of those pictures, it appears that the clamping face of the locknut is damaged as well, so further compromising the QR's ability to clamp the hub properly

G

 

[FluffyChicken]

Has nobody also considered whats going on on the other clamping face? There are two sides after all!

In one of those pictures, it appears that the clamping face of the locknut is damaged as well, so further compromising the QR's ability to clamp the hub properly

G

It has, hence asking for pictures.
But to be honest they can be quite flat and till grip well. They are against (assumed) a flat surface.

What I think is the problem (and only think, do not know of course) is the highlighted area is where it is getting clamped against and as the Alu frame is damaged from moving it's now not clamping on the rest of it. Now with two small areas to clamp against and being quite smooth it's just running along them.
The better Shimano Q/R might just help BUT I don't think it will stop the underlying problem. Also I had assumed most people have some sort of Shimano q/r lying around so was a quick test.

 

[DubDuck]

I dont have a shimano QR handy.
I know it's hard to see in the picture but the derailer hanger is recessed behind the frame. The main area of contact for the QR is the frame.
I've got a guy to actually lay his hands on it and see what he thinks.
If he can't figure it out then I'm going to drill a hole and rig up a washer with a hook to secure it.

 

[S-M]

My 98 FSR was doing the same.

Tried a different skewer, tried filing the dropouts flat with a file, still moved.

Convered the rear to a 10mm solid rear axle and the bugger has never moved since.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_242556

Just need to remember to take a 15mm spanner with me when i take the FSR bike out, job done.

 

[one-eyed_jim]

I picked up a new steel QR and put it on without the springs. It's slipping much worse.

If the problem is much worse with a different skewer, either the new skewer is worse than the old one, or your use of the skewer is in question. The idea of replacing the skewer was to fit a better one.

Has nobody also considered whats going on on the other clamping face?

Of course. Replacing the skewer is cheap and straightforward. Replacing the wheel (which may be the only reasonable approach to replacing the hub locknut) isn't. Try the simple options first.