Single Speed Freewheel Removal Help Needed

[dyna-ti]

Please.

I've what appears to be a new Sturmey Archer single speed rear hub. Its a freewheel on it, though no marks around the spoke holes or on the flanges suggesting use. Im hoping its not super tight and only nipped on.

From the pics and googleing single speed freewheel removal tool I can see the correct 4 prong tool to undo it from the outboard side.
There is also, on the reverse of the freewheel a 2nd lockring, knurled, with 3 slots evenly spaced around the edge like a lockring would be. Why else the slots :?

How do you get this off.
Is this a two tool job ? One to hold on the inboard 3 slot ring(thingy) and the 4 prong to undo the freewheel itself :?

Can't isnt in my book, so despite there being no built wheel to brace or hold, Im sure I'll be able to remove it, if i know the right tools and procedure.

suggestions ? Tips ? Cheerful advice

Pictures speak a thousand words

 

[mynchiboy]

Re:

Interesting...

It looks like the knurled ring is just screwed in place to allow chainline adjustment, so I'm guessing that just the freewheel tool will do the job?

I agree that what goes on must come off as well :twisted:

 

[Midlife]

The knurled ring is a bottom bracket lock ring used as a spacer and will just unscrew ....

Shaun

 

[Ghosty]

I'd have thought the tool used to get the freewheel off was just an "improvement" on pin spanners. If it's coming off I don't see why you'd need to touch the second one.

 

[keithglos]

Re:

To remove a freewheel you need to use the wheel for leverage. No wheel!
I used a few old spokes in the hub flange next to the freewheel and loosely connected them to an old rigid rim, only in one direction.
You then have the leverage to use the removing tool. When the cogs were too large to get the spokes in the flange I cut the heads off and bent the ends in a Z shape, an old dodge to insert spokes when in an emegancy situation out on the road.

Obvously if you use the opposite flange you will only turn the flange.

Keith

 

[bartsince1975]

Re:

In this case you can use the second tool to privide the leverage otherwise privided by the wheel. I would try to first with the 4 point tool fixed in a vise and try to unscrew the lockring. As this will run into or is already at the end of the hubs threads, it will unscrew the freewheel. This way you won't need to fiddle around with spokes.

 

[Harryburgundy]

Re:

As mentioned, a laced rim would have helped. I would normally put the tool in a vice, wheel on top, and turn using wheel as leverage. Not sure how you are going to do it as is.

 

[torqueless]

Re:

It is probably touch and go as to whether you can get an old school standard lockring spanner with five prongs at 60deg. increments to fit over the shoulder of the hub and engage with the lockring. If you can, then that might be enough anchorage to loosen the freewheel with the four-prong remover on the outside.

Edit: I just realised that a five-prong lockring spanner won't engage with a three-slot lockring anyway.

Failing that, I would clamp the hub horizontally in a vice by both its flanges and just use the four-prong remover (with a big spanner, of course). With the proviso that you first make an assessment of the ruggedness of the flanges (and the vice) and their ability to withstand such treatment without slippage or damage. If you use soft jaws in the vice, it might slip. If you go without, you will probably end up with vice-prints on the edges of the flanges.

 

[Jonny69]

As others have said, looks a lot like a bottom bracket lock ring used as a spacer. Standard BMX 4-prong freewheel by the looks of it. Stick the freewheel tool in a vice and use a hooked lock ring tool to turn it undone. It'll lock the lock ring on tighter, but you can get that off later. Alternative is to simply lace an old rim on one side and use that for leverage. There's no easy way out here!

 

[dyna-ti]

Re: Re:

To remove a freewheel you need to use the wheel for leverage. No wheel!
I used a few old spokes in the hub flange next to the freewheel and loosely connected them to an old rigid rim, only in one direction.
You then have the leverage to use the removing tool. When the cogs were too large to get the spokes in the flange I cut the heads off and bent the ends in a Z shape, an old dodge to insert spokes when in an emegancy situation out on the road.

Obvously if you use the opposite flange you will only turn the flange.

Keith

Id make a jig to hold the body of the hub, and would pin the flange to it also.

eg-
Square piece of hardwood, drilled down the same diameter as the hub body.
Split that on the bandsaw, the saw kerf will allow it to tighten on to the body as i clamp it in the bench vice(joiners vice).

I'll experiment with the hole. A little wider to accomodate a rubber liner. I can make that from an innertube and use solvent to degrade the surface to make it sticky.
Being clamped up exactly with a few tons holding it.

With the flange resting on top of the block ill use small panel pins through the spoke holes to secure it more from trying to turn(when it would put strain on the body/flange junction)
They dont have to be in fully, or every single hole. Those will act like spokes and the wooden block and vice with act as the wheel you woud normally use for leverage. And obviously add a little more to counteract any twisting force.

Im no bad at problem solving. But was hoping here it was just a matter of using two wrenches opposing eachother, without having to go to the trouble of making something.