Shimano 600 aero seatpost and quill stem
- Thread starter Dare
- Start date
ata
Devout Dirtbag
Still, I suspect the diameter difference according to tubing might also explain the difference between seatposts. I think the aero ones are basically the same design by Nitto. The Easton one may be the lightest, but it's not aero shaped, just like that fluted SP-7200 isn't aero shaped either. I would still be surprised if a like for like 600 post or stem is lighter than the DA equivalent. But I have been wrong before 
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This thread covers some of the process. I am trying to get the rest.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=278306&start=40
Richard
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=278306&start=40
Richard
Back - this is a bit messy but will give you some idea of the process. Please note the previous link gets the stem re-anodized.
As with a lot of things, it is thanks to Ian Raleigh for all of this -
First off you need this stuff...
Diamond needle files.
Foam sanding sponges.
Wet & Dry paper, **quality stuff not cheap shit.**
Plastic tubs to hold the parts safe, as you will never loose any parts.
A few thick old but clean socks...lol
Polish.
sanding blocks, something like these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-WET-AND ... 43adc2b488
Wet & Dry paper.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-wet-and-dr ... 2a23587ee3
For the wet & Dry paper you want 800 - 1000 - 1200 - 1500 - 2000 - 2500 graded paper.
This stuff will last you ages and you never throw it away but wash it and save for another time.
Strip the stem down.
De-grease all the parts.
Give them a good look over and eyeing up the parts that need to take off the bad marks with the use of the needle files.
Wash the parts to remove any such filings, you don't want to contaminate the pedals and cause further scratching.
At that stage you will think..''Ooops (LOL) I've ruined them'' but you haven't! All part of the process.
Fill the sink up with warm soapy water.
Start with the foam pads, rough at first and work down the grades of those until the filing marks are gone,
don't go mad with the rubbing but keep an eye on the material you are rubbing down, keep rinsing the block
and dipping the stem to remove crap, keep going until the file marks are gone, doesn't take long.
when happy with the surface of the alloy. Bag up and put away the sponge pads, don't throw them away though.
Empty sink! Clean sink!
Fill the sink up with warm soapy water again.
Now using the Wet & Dry paper start with a fairly rough grade but finer than the last smooth block you used last.
*don't use full squares of wet&dry paper as this wastes the paper but cut the paper down to the size of a 'cream cracker'
Working through the grades of the paper, again keep rinsing the paper[it won't fall apart like bog paper does] rinse the part too.
When you are happy with the 'flatted/smoothed finish' Its time to get the polish out and sock/s and start polishing
this too won't take much effort as the high grade paper has already polished the alloy but it is dull.
I used my Dremel type drill on a few tight spaces, using mini polishing pads, but you have to have a firm
hand holding the mini drill as one slip and you'll mark the alloy, if you do mark the alloy its time to gets
the files out again!!!! and file down the scratch and re-sand again.
things like these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POLISHING-MOP ... 4ac1fba779
The polish you sent me is loads better than autosol!!!
I have edited the above - apologies for any minor mistakes. The polish Ian used was either Mothers or Vitalsol - both available on Amazon and other places.
Use oven cleaner to remove the anodizing TO START!! Treat the stem with it, wait about 10 mins and have a look - the coating will turn black. You can check if the anodizing is off by rubbing with some polish - if the cloth goes black off the metal, the anodizing is gone, if it doesn't - more oven cleaner.
There are pics here of the process -
http://s34.photobucket.com/user/iancoll ... sort=2&o=0
Ian is a master at this. Apologies I have not the time to re-write this post into a 'how to' one but there is plenty here to get the job done.
Richard
As with a lot of things, it is thanks to Ian Raleigh for all of this -
First off you need this stuff...
Diamond needle files.
Foam sanding sponges.
Wet & Dry paper, **quality stuff not cheap shit.**
Plastic tubs to hold the parts safe, as you will never loose any parts.
A few thick old but clean socks...lol
Polish.
sanding blocks, something like these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-WET-AND ... 43adc2b488
Wet & Dry paper.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-wet-and-dr ... 2a23587ee3
For the wet & Dry paper you want 800 - 1000 - 1200 - 1500 - 2000 - 2500 graded paper.
This stuff will last you ages and you never throw it away but wash it and save for another time.
Strip the stem down.
De-grease all the parts.
Give them a good look over and eyeing up the parts that need to take off the bad marks with the use of the needle files.
Wash the parts to remove any such filings, you don't want to contaminate the pedals and cause further scratching.
At that stage you will think..''Ooops (LOL) I've ruined them'' but you haven't! All part of the process.
Fill the sink up with warm soapy water.
Start with the foam pads, rough at first and work down the grades of those until the filing marks are gone,
don't go mad with the rubbing but keep an eye on the material you are rubbing down, keep rinsing the block
and dipping the stem to remove crap, keep going until the file marks are gone, doesn't take long.
when happy with the surface of the alloy. Bag up and put away the sponge pads, don't throw them away though.
Empty sink! Clean sink!
Fill the sink up with warm soapy water again.
Now using the Wet & Dry paper start with a fairly rough grade but finer than the last smooth block you used last.
*don't use full squares of wet&dry paper as this wastes the paper but cut the paper down to the size of a 'cream cracker'
Working through the grades of the paper, again keep rinsing the paper[it won't fall apart like bog paper does] rinse the part too.
When you are happy with the 'flatted/smoothed finish' Its time to get the polish out and sock/s and start polishing
this too won't take much effort as the high grade paper has already polished the alloy but it is dull.
I used my Dremel type drill on a few tight spaces, using mini polishing pads, but you have to have a firm
hand holding the mini drill as one slip and you'll mark the alloy, if you do mark the alloy its time to gets
the files out again!!!! and file down the scratch and re-sand again.
things like these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POLISHING-MOP ... 4ac1fba779
The polish you sent me is loads better than autosol!!!
I have edited the above - apologies for any minor mistakes. The polish Ian used was either Mothers or Vitalsol - both available on Amazon and other places.
Use oven cleaner to remove the anodizing TO START!! Treat the stem with it, wait about 10 mins and have a look - the coating will turn black. You can check if the anodizing is off by rubbing with some polish - if the cloth goes black off the metal, the anodizing is gone, if it doesn't - more oven cleaner.
There are pics here of the process -
http://s34.photobucket.com/user/iancoll ... sort=2&o=0
Ian is a master at this. Apologies I have not the time to re-write this post into a 'how to' one but there is plenty here to get the job done.
Richard
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Good morning,
The decals will disappear at the first stage of the process. There is no need to anodize the stem when you get it polished unless you want to. Re the Rossin stem - I wanted the anodizing to remove the mirror shine.
I hope this helps,
Richard
The decals will disappear at the first stage of the process. There is no need to anodize the stem when you get it polished unless you want to. Re the Rossin stem - I wanted the anodizing to remove the mirror shine.
I hope this helps,
Richard
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