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I like them.
They flex in a 'wheel wobby' way, but so do JUDY forks.
Give the a good service when you get them unless you know they've been done. Preferably get the 1994+ versions as they have the most modern of the internals compared to the rest and recently noticed they had bulked the brace up as well compared to '93 model.
Possibly go for '94 MAG10's or '95 MAG21 (some fork bar colour and a knob at the top instead of an allen key, in fact get the top cap and you have converted them) that is if you don't like the Alu stanchions and prefer the steel ones.
Most people have experience of the MAG20 and they where improved quite a bit to respond to the trail.
But they are designed more to take hitting roots, stones etc out rather than trail buzz.
If you're handy with some files etc, converting them to 60mm LT's or longer (dare I say 70mm) shouldn't be a problem. It's jsut a spacer. But it gives you a greater air area to play with and can run them with greater sag (as in actually have some) and not loose out on the geometry.
Go for it, you can always flog them if you really don't like it.
But try a Brake booster on them helps stiffen them up and the braking. Plus a good front hub. After using them with a hope original hub (skinny thing) for quite some time.. since '93/'94, I can see the difference with a Hope Mono suspension
They aint bombers or modern forks, so don't expect them to be.
You need to play with the oil/air setups a little and the damping (lockout) adjusts to get it right for you, especially if playing with the travel.
P.S. If you're bottoming out MAGs then they are just not setup correctly
as with any fork.
They flex in a 'wheel wobby' way, but so do JUDY forks.
Give the a good service when you get them unless you know they've been done. Preferably get the 1994+ versions as they have the most modern of the internals compared to the rest and recently noticed they had bulked the brace up as well compared to '93 model.
Possibly go for '94 MAG10's or '95 MAG21 (some fork bar colour and a knob at the top instead of an allen key, in fact get the top cap and you have converted them) that is if you don't like the Alu stanchions and prefer the steel ones.
Most people have experience of the MAG20 and they where improved quite a bit to respond to the trail.
But they are designed more to take hitting roots, stones etc out rather than trail buzz.
If you're handy with some files etc, converting them to 60mm LT's or longer (dare I say 70mm) shouldn't be a problem. It's jsut a spacer. But it gives you a greater air area to play with and can run them with greater sag (as in actually have some) and not loose out on the geometry.
Go for it, you can always flog them if you really don't like it.
But try a Brake booster on them helps stiffen them up and the braking. Plus a good front hub. After using them with a hope original hub (skinny thing) for quite some time.. since '93/'94, I can see the difference with a Hope Mono suspension
They aint bombers or modern forks, so don't expect them to be.
You need to play with the oil/air setups a little and the damping (lockout) adjusts to get it right for you, especially if playing with the travel.
P.S. If you're bottoming out MAGs then they are just not setup correctly
as with any fork.
