Retro wheel rebuild and queries

widowmaker

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Hi all :)

Another possibly stupid question from me - apologies if it is :facepalm:

I own a 1985 Raleigh Clubman, and I am trying desperately to keep the old girl going and hold my own with my cycling buddies with modern bikes. I have very nearly bought a new bike but where is the fun in that.

Well here's my query .

I am running the stock 27" wheel size which I want to keep, but its time to get them overhauled. The rear wheel is where I am a little confused.

The rim is ok but the spokes and hub need replacing, but also the freewheel is past its best so I was hoping to get a more 'hill friendly' set up whilst I am getting the wheel rebuilt. Is it possible to buy a new hub and new screw on freewheel and get these built up using my old rim and new spokes ??

For example something like this 12-28 T

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=301463&p=2257422&hilit=freewheel#p2257422
 
Re:

Yes, there is no reason why you shouldn’t change the freewheel for something more suitable. I have a Clubman of a similar vintage with a six-speed freewheel on a Maillard hub. Being a Raleigh I would assume that the hub has a British thread. Depending on how big a sprocket you choose you may need to add some links to the chain and you will need to ensure that it is within the range of the derailleur to handle but I think going up to 28 teeth should cause few problems. If you intend to rebuild the wheel, remember to remove the freewheel before you cut the spokes off the hub.

Is it worth replacing the bearings in the hub before looking for a replacement or do you feel its problems are more terminal? For the cost of a packet of ¼” ball bearings in might be worth trying to rebuild it.
 
Re: Re:

Martin Rattler":219rihs3 said:
Yes, there is no reason why you shouldn’t change the freewheel for something more suitable. I have a Clubman of a similar vintage with a six-speed freewheel on a Maillard hub. Being a Raleigh I would assume that the hub has a British thread. Depending on how big a sprocket you choose you may need to add some links to the chain and you will need to ensure that it is within the range of the derailleur to handle but I think going up to 28 teeth should cause few problems. If you intend to rebuild the wheel, remember to remove the freewheel before you cut the spokes off the hub.

Is it worth replacing the bearings in the hub before looking for a replacement or do you feel its problems are more terminal? For the cost of a packet of ¼” ball bearings in might be worth trying to rebuild it.

Thanks for your help, it has the Suntour ultra 6 speed cassette and a maillard hub too, the suntour has developed a terminal rumble i have oiled it but it still rumbles. I wanted to fit something like a 12-28t to help with the hills around dorset and help me to save the old knees.

Am i right in assuming that a could get away with a 7 speed freewheel ?

I was also getting a little worried riding the bike with a 29 year old original wheel with original spokes/hub just it case if collapsed at 30 mph down a hill :)
 
Re:

I am not sure whether a 7-speed freewheel (not cassette) would fit; I suspect not without adjusting the with of the rear drop outs. I have tried on several occasions to fit a six speed in place of a five, it appearing that there was loads of clearance but in all cases the chain fouled the seatstay. If you can borrow a seven speed freewheel there is no reason that you shouldn't try it for size though. You suggest that the rumbling is coming from the freewheel and I don't think there is any reason why you shouldn't replace this with a new component. I bought a new Sunrace 5-speed block via Amazon for a few quid a couple of years ago and it was fine for general use if you are not worried about authenticity.

I suspect that the hub will be fit for further service with the bearings replaced. I take your point about erring on the side of caution with a 30 year old rear wheel and I have just rebuilt the rear wheel of my Royal which tends to get used heavily in the winter. If it were me I would rebuild with the original hub and rim unless these components were damaged or worn sufficient to prevent further service.
 
Suntour Ultra 6 had a specially thin chain and cogs IIRC to fit nicely into a 120mm set-up rear end..........how wide is your rear end? I guess by 1885 it would be 126mm which should take a normal 6 speed block.

Shaun
 
Midlife":38hjuigj said:
Suntour Ultra 6 had a specially thin chain and cogs IIRC to fit nicely into a 120mm set-up rear end..........how wide is your rear end? I guess by 1885 it would be 126mm which should take a normal 6 speed block.

Shaun

I shall have a measure tonight, the Ultra 6 does seem pretty thin.

A 6 speed with a 28t would be ideal for the hills i ride.
 
From Sheldon........

"Ultra Six ®" spaced 6 speeds used a closer spacing, around 5 mm. This permitted an Ultra Six ® freewheel to directly replace a standard 5-speed unit on a 120 mm hub. The key to making this work was the use of a narrower chain. The interior width of the chain was the same as always, but the new narrower chains used shorter rivets, so the ends of the rivets didn't protrude past the outer chain plates, as the rivets in traditional chains did.

Shaun
 
Midlife":1o53mhnx said:
From Sheldon........

"Ultra Six ®" spaced 6 speeds used a closer spacing, around 5 mm. This permitted an Ultra Six ® freewheel to directly replace a standard 5-speed unit on a 120 mm hub. The key to making this work was the use of a narrower chain. The interior width of the chain was the same as always, but the new narrower chains used shorter rivets, so the ends of the rivets didn't protrude past the outer chain plates, as the rivets in traditional chains did.

Shaun

8)

Was going to check out sheldon when i got home from work - Thanks !
 
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