Removing difficult cranks with sripped theads

[randomdan]

I hope this may help someone, now I've now proved scientifically that bike tools are actually rubbish!

Park tools crank puller, cost £15.90 from evans: Score +1

Hilka gear puller, cost £14.99, Screwfix # 12510: Score +3

Cheaper than binning a crank with a stripped thread, and better for the environment.

This public information is given freely without prejudice. I am in no way associated professionally with Hilka, Screwfix, or Shimano

 

[Chopper the ex Copper]

Park tools are vastly overrated. If you have recalcitrant crank then use a car ball joint splitter and some heat.

 

[dyna-ti]

I would like to throw the accusation down that they didnt tighten the puller enough

Not sure of the number but there is a shimano tool (Park might actually do one :? ) that cuts itself into the crank with a slightly larger thread Failing that if you start to pull out, undo then lots of anti seize into the axle fitting(foaming stuff is best) then threadlock the crank puller into the crank not skimping and leave overnight.

Still starts to pull out, buy a new crankpuller and here i would offer the humble opinion of sticking the the shimano one. Ive found the cyclo one to be a bit slack and had a couple of pull outs till i swopped to shimano. Worth the extra money


My humble onion from doing this at home late in the evening when all the shop mechanics are home and unavailable
Ive also looked at having a gear puller around for just such emergencies but i know someone with one


+1 for gear puller.

car ball joint splitter

Bit violent chop eh ? the other end is ripping into the bb cup or bb shell :?

 

[ishaw]

Just thinking out loud here, but a way to remove cranks without or with dodgy threads could work (in my head it does) using a long bolt into the bb, and a bit of metal between the bolt head and crank arm. In theory, tightening the bolt against the metal will result in the arm being pulled off the bb. I could of course be very wrong but I've used this method to remove shock bushings in the past with 100% success using the original mounting bolt and a stack of washers to create a tube to pull the bushing through despite tightening the bolt if you get my meaning.

 

[Silvergoat]

Re:

Loosen the bolts, keep them in, apply some lube, then go for a ride. Pedalling and vibrations do the job. This non-destructive option has worked successfully.

 

[legrandefromage]

My Park crank remover is in year 16 and still going.

 

[randomdan]

TBH I'm maybe being harsh on the park tool. It did the job where the thread wasn't knackered by previous failed removal attempts, or in the case of the nasty unbranded cast iron cranks with odball threads off of the orbit (shortly destined for a metal skip!) it would of worked fine. The other park tool kit I have just does its job well.

The other ideas are good, riding with the bolts out was not an option for me as I'd stupidly stripped most other parts off to the point putting them back would have been a bit of a hastle.

Ishaw's suggestion is also good. I did try various metal plates and bolts, g-clamps and nuts and bolts, but the right combination of kludge just couldn't be found in my garage!

 

[dyna-ti]

My Park crank remover is in year 16 and still going.

Aye, but he's only used it twice

 

[old_coyote_pedaller]

Just thinking out loud here, but a way to remove cranks without or with dodgy threads could work (in my head it does) using a long bolt into the bb, and a bit of metal between the bolt head and crank arm. In theory, tightening the bolt against the metal will result in the arm being pulled off the bb. I could of course be very wrong but I've used this method to remove shock bushings in the past with 100% success using the original mounting bolt and a stack of washers to create a tube to pull the bushing through despite tightening the bolt if you get my meaning.

Surely doing this would just be the same as when you tighten the crank bolt to fit the crank arm, ie it will just push bit of metal onto the crank arm and push it on tighter. Bolt head--bit of metal--crank arm--bolt tighten is same as crank bolt head--inside of crank arm--bolt tighten sequence.
A crank puller as it says pulls on crank against BB axle, you'd be pushing crank towards crank axle.

 

[mattr]

Is it the park tool with two differing threads?
Seen that catch people out before.