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Re:
From page 3 of the F5 owners manual:
Seat Post.
A unique seatpost clamping system is featured on the RC-200. So that the seat tube cluster is reinforced, there is no "split" in the head of the seat tube. A contoured plate is welded into the seat tube which guides the seatpost into the frame & gives added support in this area. The seatpost clamp is separate to the frame, & is bolted in position with a titanium M5 screw. This screw does not need to be removed for seat post adjustment. Do not overtighten this screw into the frame. NOTE; Seatclamp mounting screw;
TORQUE TO 28 inlbs ( 3NM max. )
Seatpost Diameter; 29.4mm
RECOMMENDED SEATPOST. Do not use a " shimmed type" seatpost. Such a product may damage frame & would invalidate warranty. We would recommend a quality longer length aluminium seatpost of a full 29.4 dia, such as Syncros or Ringle.
Smear copper grease ( anti-seize) over lower part of post before fitment, & make sure post is a smooth fit inside seat tube.
It is important that there is sufficient penetration of the seatpost into the seat tube. With the saddle height adjusted correctly the seatpost must penetrate at LEAST 100mm (measured from top of seat post clamp ). Ideally, fit an extra-long seatpost such as the Syncros 425mm & cut so that it leaves as much overlap of seatpost into frame as possible, which will reinforce the frame in this area.
NOTE; If the seatpost you are using only just penetrates the correct amount into the frame, be careful when lending your machine to a tall friend should the saddle height need adjusting!
The M6 titanium screw in the rear of the seatpost clamp should not be overtightened, otherwise the clamp could be distorted & would require replacement.
I always thought the main issue was the flexiness of a shimmed 25mm seat post, i.e. it would introduce extra stress into an already stressed seat tube junction.
Probably best to play it safe and go for the longest possible 29.4mm post.
I know Mint Sauce had a shimmed USE on his but he was only a 50lbs sheep
From page 3 of the F5 owners manual:
Seat Post.
A unique seatpost clamping system is featured on the RC-200. So that the seat tube cluster is reinforced, there is no "split" in the head of the seat tube. A contoured plate is welded into the seat tube which guides the seatpost into the frame & gives added support in this area. The seatpost clamp is separate to the frame, & is bolted in position with a titanium M5 screw. This screw does not need to be removed for seat post adjustment. Do not overtighten this screw into the frame. NOTE; Seatclamp mounting screw;
TORQUE TO 28 inlbs ( 3NM max. )
Seatpost Diameter; 29.4mm
RECOMMENDED SEATPOST. Do not use a " shimmed type" seatpost. Such a product may damage frame & would invalidate warranty. We would recommend a quality longer length aluminium seatpost of a full 29.4 dia, such as Syncros or Ringle.
Smear copper grease ( anti-seize) over lower part of post before fitment, & make sure post is a smooth fit inside seat tube.
It is important that there is sufficient penetration of the seatpost into the seat tube. With the saddle height adjusted correctly the seatpost must penetrate at LEAST 100mm (measured from top of seat post clamp ). Ideally, fit an extra-long seatpost such as the Syncros 425mm & cut so that it leaves as much overlap of seatpost into frame as possible, which will reinforce the frame in this area.
NOTE; If the seatpost you are using only just penetrates the correct amount into the frame, be careful when lending your machine to a tall friend should the saddle height need adjusting!
The M6 titanium screw in the rear of the seatpost clamp should not be overtightened, otherwise the clamp could be distorted & would require replacement.
I always thought the main issue was the flexiness of a shimmed 25mm seat post, i.e. it would introduce extra stress into an already stressed seat tube junction.
Probably best to play it safe and go for the longest possible 29.4mm post.
I know Mint Sauce had a shimmed USE on his but he was only a 50lbs sheep
