Pre-WW2 BSA, something of a diamond in the rough I believe

What decals should I use on this bike?

  • It is almost certainly a BSA Opperman Special and the decals should state this.

    Votes: 2 66.7%
  • It is almost certainly a BSA and the decals should state this.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • It could be anything and it should not have decals.

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • I should listen to friends who say I should shut up about it.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    3
  • This poll will close: .
@Mark Manley - love the brutal honesty based on experience. 😍

@PhillB - love the description of the "mind games" going on. 😍

Sort of shows just how almost fragile and personal these projects actually are.

Think this is something more unique to the road section and dealing with very vintage. It's so hard having these things in your hand and a wrestle and waying up many factors related to age, capability, budget, usefulness, own expectations, external expectations, what's feasible, what's available, what should be the target, what knowledge is out their, what is actually written down in this period, etc. etc.

Not to mention twists and turns on the way, tooling, and getting it all familiar and respect what it can and cannot withstand when wrenching and rebuilding.

Above all it's just excellent making time to share the journey with others to enjoy. 🥰
 
Having scoured the internet for photos of the BSA Opperman Special using all sorts of search terms I have found five that are out there, I am sure there are more in existence but their photos are not easy to find, all of them have many of the same features as my bike but none have the same lugs, there are also many brochure photos none of which show then either so I am not sure about what decals to use assuming I could get the signature ones made.
A couple of years ago I had what I’d narrowed down to a 1938 BSA Sports. Almost everything matched the brochure except a couple of small details. For a long time I wasn’t convinced it was a BSA but a lot of things were the same and it had remnants of BSA box lining. They can be extremely difficult to fully identify once they’ve lost their original badges and decals.

Yeah, the lugs are the bit on yours that have thrown me too. I guess the question I’d like answered is if BSA made any lightweights, ie non-factory made frames built to order with customer-specified fittings. Because that way it would explain the light gauge tubes and different lugs.
 
A couple of years ago I had what I’d narrowed down to a 1938 BSA Sports. Almost everything matched the brochure except a couple of small details. For a long time I wasn’t convinced it was a BSA but a lot of things were the same and it had remnants of BSA box lining. They can be extremely difficult to fully identify once they’ve lost their original badges and decals.

Yeah, the lugs are the bit on yours that have thrown me too. I guess the question I’d like answered is if BSA made any lightweights, ie non-factory made frames built to order with customer-specified fittings. Because that way it would explain the light gauge tubes and different lugs.
Yes, I had the same with my Radior... I actually thought it might be a BSA at first - but it had French threads and French sized tubing. BSA identification is complicated because so many bikes had BSA components, but were not BSA frames. For example, you could buy a 1931 Selbach with BSA, Chater Lea, Williams, or Selbach's own components. The BSA and CL were premium.

Which has got me thinking... @Mark Manley Have you measured the top and down tube diameters, Fork steerer diameter. Does the rear bridge have vertical or horizontal drilling?
 
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Which has got me thinking... @Mark Manley Have you measured the top and down tube diameters, Fork steerer diameter. Does the rear bridge have vertical or horizontal drilling?

The rear brake is horizontal with the following tube diameters.

Seat post tube 28.6 mm with a 27.2 seat post.

Head tube 31.5 mm

Top tube 25.6 mm

Down tube 28.8 mm

I have painted the forks which came out quite well and assembled them into the frame with a pair of wheels to see if the nos caliper brakes I had were suitable, they are.
The wheels are 26 x 13/8 and should be 26 x 11/4 will needs sorting but they are the hubs that will be used, a nos Bayliss Wiley and the reason I was looking for a BSA frame a nos BSA three speed.

Yes the rear wheel is in the wrong way.

IMG_20250731_091852647 - Copy.webp

IMG_20250731_092008858 - Copy.webp
 
I love the look of a freshly painted bike in the morning! :LOL:

The frame measurements do point towards a British Built bike (i.e. not French - if you are wondering why this is relevant 😄 it's only because I spent ages trying to ID my Radior as a British bike before I measured it and found out it was French!!)

On the wheels, one thing to note (which you may already know) is that there are FAR more tyre options out there for 26 1&3/8 than there are for 26 1&1/4. I have 26 1&1/4 on my E.Stephens and the only half decent tyres I have been able to find are by Kenda. (I'm only keeping them because they are original hand-enamalled)
 
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