poke in the eye for users of coppa slip and other anti-seize

[twain]

hmm they all have there relevant applications. Personally I go for

grease: for things that are meant to move

Anti seize: for things you may want to remove

loctite: for things you don't want to fall off

+1 for this.
i've just recently bothered to loctite the threaded bolt on my crank arm.
dont use copper grease anywhere on my bike. castol LM grease is all i use. i clean and re-lube after particularly bad weather bouts or gritty riding conditions. also do a 'summer service' (clean/replace chain, cassette, gear/brake cables etc....)

although i'm more a commuter rider than anything else, so my pace is some what pedestrian and i don't feel i need to go into great depth about this sort of stuff - still an interesting read though, so thanks for posting this up

 

[firedfromthecircus]

A random 'bloke with a blog' says so... it must be true.

Got to love the internet.

But he says he's an 'engineer'!!!

 

[taffy]

And an aerospace one too!

 

[Chopper the ex Copper]

Normal grease is of little use on threads. Under pressure it flows like water in the thread and moves away from the point of contact. Its better than nothing I guess, but not by a lot.

 

[02gf74]

A random 'bloke with a blog' says so... it must be true.

Got to love the internet.

But he says he's an 'engineer'!!!

To put it into context, someone had a Ti brake rotor seize in an aluminium alloy hub that had been greased with copper grease.

To stop bolts seizing I use copper grease on steel bolts - there is discussion again on the web (so it must be true ) that using copper grease with stainless steel (in aluminium?) is not good as the metals react.

I am not advocating against the use of copper based grease but there are situations where it is not ideal...... anyways, it is your bkes so do what you want

 

[Russell]

A random 'bloke with a blog' says so... it must be true.

Got to love the internet.

But he says he's an 'engineer'!!!

To put it into context, someone had a Ti brake rotor seize in an aluminium alloy hub that had been greased with copper grease.

I've had a steel rotor bolt that was secured with Loctite, sieze in an aluminium hub body... go figure.

It's probably (within reason) not that important what you use as long as you follow a good maintenance schedule. Bolts probably sieze because they are left 'in-situ' too long in unfavourable conditions, not because you've used grease rather than loctite.

I'm not an 'aerospace' engineer though.

 

[twain]

A random 'bloke with a blog' says so... it must be true.

Got to love the internet.

this made me laugh, because of this (from the part 2 section comments):

GsoroosMarch 1, 2012 10:30:00 AM EST
Thanks for this info, I'll be getting some Loctite 222 and 243 for my workbench, and use them more often now.

 

[Chopper the ex Copper]

Do you think perchance that he sells Loctite?

 

[xerxes]

I've been using Coppa Slip all over the place on a bike I'm putting together at the moment, threads, seatpost etc. because I have a big tub of it. At my current rate of use, I will be able to leave well over half of it to someone in my will.

 

[integerspin]

And an aerospace one too!

And no mention of Duralac?

I never used any products and I used to have bits fall of my bikes[motrobikes];-)
A mate was a fitter on Harriers and he used a large range of products when he put his chop together. I sort of copied what he used, more or less.
I use loctite copper, or non metallic, anti seize on same material screw threads. Different materials I use Duralac. I think Bob said they used Duralac on all different metal interfaces. I have 3 or 4 different types of thread lock and pick them as I think necessary, I didn't think any thread lock was needed on my push bike.

I tried shaking my tube of Duralac today, had it strapped to an orbital for a couple of minutes. Didn't work.