paint removal advice needed please.

[onegoodbike]

Afternoon all, I've got some components that have been oversprayed after a rattlecan paintjob (not by me I hasten to add), is there any easy way of removing this kind of paint without damaging the underlying material?, in this case anodized alloy, plastic and rubber. If anyone has experience of this, I'd be grateful to hear how they did it. Cheers Matt

 

[t47b]

Re:

Assuming you don't want to use paint thinners, I've always used T cut to remove overspray as the paint is generally more recent/softer than what it has settled on. If you need anything even less abrasive than T cut then liquid car polish contains a cutting agent but is milder.

 

[Old Ned]

On a modelling forum someone asked about stripping paint from plastic models and, at one time, I would have suggested brake fluid. However, the formula has changed (for the worse) since I last bought some (quite a few years ago!) and a recent development seems to be using a 50/50 Dettol/water mix. This does require a soaking session with models but for bike parts perhaps a stronger solution may be OK? Try on a small hidden section first!

Anything goes wrong - you didn't read it here......................

 

[onegoodbike]

Re:

Thanks for that guys, I wasn't sure that paint thinners would be appropriate, but I might give it a go, if things start to bubble i'll switch to the Dettol mix! . Cheers Matt

 

[danson67]

I've had some success with this stuff on enamel, both rattlecan and paintshop. Generally not tough enough for powdercoat (try gasket remover for that), but it's really safe to use and won't attack seals etc. or carbon.

Wrap it in clingfilm and leave overnight. Paint bubbles and peels off.

All the best

 

[Logdrop]

Re:

Look on eBay for detailing clay, used by car detailers. I've used it loads of times when cleaning cars, excellent stuff.

 

[stefthehat]

I know iam prob to late to help,rattlecan paint is cellulose so a carbody suppler will have cellulose thinners, wear marigold gloves as it eats through latex gloves and use in well ventilated area and don't smoke it is flammable! Use a number of rags with the thinners finishing off with one that hasn't been used for scrubbing duties which will lift the fine misty film left by the others, the solvent won't harm anodizing as that finish is etched\bonded onto metalwork likewise with trad enamelling or modern 2k spraying

 

[Old Ned]

I know iam prob to late to help,rattlecan paint is cellulose so a carbody suppler will have cellulose thinners, wear marigold gloves as it eats through latex gloves and use in well ventilated area and don't smoke it is flammable! Use a number of rags with the thinners finishing off with one that hasn't been used for scrubbing duties which will lift the fine misty film left by the others, the solvent won't harm anodizing as that finish is etched\bonded onto metalwork likewise with trad enamelling or modern 2k spraying

I think that many can paints are acrylic these days but if the overspray has been on for some time then it could be cellulose. The Dettol trick has been recommended for acrylic as it is quite resistant to many solvents etc.

 

[stefthehat]

It can be v confusing,basically anything over the counter is mainly solvent based even if called acrylic on the label, but paints drying basically revolves around the solvents evaporation and the solvent most prob will be cellulose,2k or 2 pack paints involve a catalyst and once the chemical reaction has happened is basically 'sealed' for good,there are some polyurethane paints out there{only seen them as brush on}that when wet are dissolvable with cellulose thinners but once dry,untouchable by solvents ,ive seen over past 20 odd years brands that were labelled cellulose more often labelled acrylic now,and just to really confuse matters due to change in laws a lot of more industrial spraying has gone 2k to water based acrylics that once water has evaporated are solvent resistant just like artists acrylics in tubes have been for 30 odd years