Opinions, please...single speed crowd
- Thread starter epptx
- Start date
i built a budget SS last year. i'm no expert, i did a little bit of reading on the subject, bought some stuff and it works flawlessly.
i took a standard shimano rear, a spacer kit from charlie the bike monger (along with a thicker SS chain) a couple of cogs off here (azonic front and a shimano rear, both SS specific) a basic DMR chain tensioner and the job was sorted. chainline was perfect, the drivetrain is virtually silent in operation and the whole conversion cost about £30.
you've already got a functioning SS so why change it? it would possibly be easier and cheaper to change your front or back cog to give you a slightly more suitable final gearing to fit in with the existing crank, BB & chainline.
i took a standard shimano rear, a spacer kit from charlie the bike monger (along with a thicker SS chain) a couple of cogs off here (azonic front and a shimano rear, both SS specific) a basic DMR chain tensioner and the job was sorted. chainline was perfect, the drivetrain is virtually silent in operation and the whole conversion cost about £30.
you've already got a functioning SS so why change it? it would possibly be easier and cheaper to change your front or back cog to give you a slightly more suitable final gearing to fit in with the existing crank, BB & chainline.
feetabix
Retrobike Rider
IDB1":1ur6bnv7 said:lewis1641":1ur6bnv7 said:
As an aside (and because I'm probably going DX cranks on something later in the year).. why the BB change for those??
I asked about those re-cut tandem cranks earlier in the year and got a resounding 'not worth it, buy some over here that aren't re-hashed' type response..
But they seem an ok deal to me (which means nothing)
I bought some idb....they are nos and look great on the bike....the only difference from standard is that they have no drippings for a granny ring, they were cheap, arrived quickly and I am over the moon with them.....
Thank you
To all who responded...
Thank you! You've given me plenty to think about...particularly on the point that I might be sacrificing a good chain line for sake of a small change, and that it might take a lot of money to get that chain line back with a whole raft of new parts.
In short, if it ain't broke, why fix it? Right?
You are correct in your read of several things...
The bike does currently work well.
I am indeed under 6'0"...5'9" to be exact.
My only complaint is one of comfort...the length of the cranks.
I am actually reasonably happy with the 44T ring.. So, at the end of the day, what your thoughtful responses lead me to is that I simply have to decide...how much is 5 mm extra length worth to me? The consensus seems to be that the expense would not be worth it, and all this information is helpful.
To all who responded...
Thank you! You've given me plenty to think about...particularly on the point that I might be sacrificing a good chain line for sake of a small change, and that it might take a lot of money to get that chain line back with a whole raft of new parts.
In short, if it ain't broke, why fix it? Right?
You are correct in your read of several things...
The bike does currently work well.
I am indeed under 6'0"...5'9" to be exact.
My only complaint is one of comfort...the length of the cranks.
I am actually reasonably happy with the 44T ring.. So, at the end of the day, what your thoughtful responses lead me to is that I simply have to decide...how much is 5 mm extra length worth to me? The consensus seems to be that the expense would not be worth it, and all this information is helpful.
Shorter cranks (like 170mm) are apparently easier to spin at high cadences, however with that gearing that you're running I guess that's not really an issue?
You can, of course, ignore all those "you'll need a tensioner" suggestions as you have semi-horizontal dropouts anyway (but you know that anyway).
All you might need to accommodate different chainring/sprocket sizes is a half link, or more specifically a Gussett link-and-a-half like this.
You can, of course, ignore all those "you'll need a tensioner" suggestions as you have semi-horizontal dropouts anyway (but you know that anyway).
All you might need to accommodate different chainring/sprocket sizes is a half link, or more specifically a Gussett link-and-a-half like this.
Re: Thank you
i've worked out your dilemma and come up with the solution.
5mm offset pedals.
they would need designing and making but if you imagine putting a cranked arm on the thread end of the spindle with a 5mm post then the threaded section on this. you would have a slightly wider gate because of the post but you get your extra 5mm!
does anyone make anything like this or have i just invented the next big thing!!!
epptx":2ggmxg8t said:
i've worked out your dilemma and come up with the solution.
5mm offset pedals.
they would need designing and making but if you imagine putting a cranked arm on the thread end of the spindle with a 5mm post then the threaded section on this. you would have a slightly wider gate because of the post but you get your extra 5mm!
does anyone make anything like this or have i just invented the next big thing!!!
