ON ONE Inbred, Single speed canal path cruiser project
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enc
Kona Fan
Couple of reasons… prepping a frame for paint takes ages… I didn’t really want to invest thst much time on this build.
have you seen the old shovel channel on YouTube? That guy rarely strips a frame to bare metal instead flatting back the original paint and over painting. His frames look ok.
So inspired by old shovel, I keyed the original paint, treated the rust spots, etch primed then base and clear coated. I Just realised I didnt post the during paint pics.. I’ll dig some out an update the thread.
novocaine
Old School Grand Master
It should be a law that inbreds are singlespeed. your looks awesome.
she doesn't look like this now, but no1. bike is still one and I still love riding it.
On a Break by David Rees, on Flickr
currently has a set of radions on the front at 140mm, m2 brakes replaced the b2's, tiny stem and wide bars.
she doesn't look like this now, but no1. bike is still one and I still love riding it.
On a Break by David Rees, on Flickrcurrently has a set of radions on the front at 140mm, m2 brakes replaced the b2's, tiny stem and wide bars.
captaincowelly
Senior Retro Guru
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Can't beat a good dip n strip in my eyes.Probably cost you less than £20.Saves a lot of time.And you can ensure there's no surprises lurking under the paint.Plus the inside of the frame gets a good rinse too.Also gives the smoothest finish of course.Unless you want to spend time rubbing down coats of primer filler to even the surface up where the original paint is damaged..Nothing shows imperfections better than a shiny new coat of paint!
And you don't really want too much thickness of paint on a frame,If it's already painted you could be doubling up.Too thick will crack,not to mention paint is weight!
As mentioned,etch primer on bare metal,primer filler after that if you have any rough surfaces you wish to smooth over.
Toughest finish that covers/looks the best is basecoat and lacquer.The basecoat will cover more easily than topcoat.Topcoat is a combination of basecoat and lacquer so is 'thinner'.Lacquer is the toughest of the three layers,so a coat of clear is gonna be harder wearing than a coat of topcoat.
Also,using basecoat and lacquer gives a superior finish to the colour.And is shinier.The more lacquer,the deeper the colour.Really comes alive.Topcoat can look a bit flat.Difficult to explain.
I use a local auto paint suppliers,pick from an endless range of colours,or they can scan colour to find a match.Mixed to order,the aerosols spray really nicely.They'll tell you what colour primer to use too,can make a difference with some colours.Bout £14 for 400ml.Can get 100ml/250ml touch up pots also.
All the work is in the prep of course.Surprising how even a fingerprint can show through paint.Good rinse/wipe over (I use brake cleaner).I normally get two,sometimes three coats on at a time (a few mins apart,before the last coat has fully dried). If you want a real nice,smooth as factory finish,gently wet flat with some 800 grit wet n dry after each layer (once fully dried).Wipe down afterwards,dry,and paint the next layer.The paint will adhere very well and you'll notice how smoothly it goes on.
If you're going to treat the inside of the frame with anti-corrosive/lube spray,best wait till it's painted to avoid contamination!
Bit of a long winded answer but hopefully something of use in there.Hope it goes well whatever you decide!
icicleboy
Dirt Disciple
Wow, thanks for that. Gonna need to keep a note of this 'recipe'. Read it a few times and get used to the terminology. Paint, I know what that is at least !Can't beat a good dip n strip in my eyes.Probably cost you less than £20.Saves a lot of time.And you can ensure there's no surprises lurking under the paint.Plus the inside of the frame gets a good rinse too.Also gives the smoothest finish of course.Unless you want to spend time rubbing down coats of primer filler to even the surface up where the original paint is damaged..Nothing shows imperfections better than a shiny new coat of paint!
And you don't really want too much thickness of paint on a frame,If it's already painted you could be doubling up.Too thick will crack,not to mention paint is weight!
As mentioned,etch primer on bare metal,primer filler after that if you have any rough surfaces you wish to smooth over.
Toughest finish that covers/looks the best is basecoat and lacquer.The basecoat will cover more easily than topcoat.Topcoat is a combination of basecoat and lacquer so is 'thinner'.Lacquer is the toughest of the three layers,so a coat of clear is gonna be harder wearing than a coat of topcoat.
Also,using basecoat and lacquer gives a superior finish to the colour.And is shinier.The more lacquer,the deeper the colour.Really comes alive.Topcoat can look a bit flat.Difficult to explain.
I use a local auto paint suppliers,pick from an endless range of colours,or they can scan colour to find a match.Mixed to order,the aerosols spray really nicely.They'll tell you what colour primer to use too,can make a difference with some colours.Bout £14 for 400ml.Can get 100ml/250ml touch up pots also.
All the work is in the prep of course.Surprising how even a fingerprint can show through paint.Good rinse/wipe over (I use brake cleaner).I normally get two,sometimes three coats on at a time (a few mins apart,before the last coat has fully dried). If you want a real nice,smooth as factory finish,gently wet flat with some 800 grit wet n dry after each layer (once fully dried).Wipe down afterwards,dry,and paint the next layer.The paint will adhere very well and you'll notice how smoothly it goes on.
If you're going to treat the inside of the frame with anti-corrosive/lube spray,best wait till it's painted to avoid contamination!
Bit of a long winded answer but hopefully something of use in there.Hope it goes well whatever you decide!
captaincowelly
Senior Retro Guru
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Can be difficult to gauge where someone's at regarding experience,trying not to be too technical but don't want to patronise.Done enough home aerosol spraying over the years and thankfully have learned a lot from a couple of experienced painters.Admittedly I get my mate to spray my frames nowadays as it would take me a lot of work to achieve the finish he can do so easily.What I've described above takes some time,the wet flatting takes a bit of patience and care not to rub through the new coat (especially on the edges) but each time you flat,it gets smoother and the next coat goes on more easily.The paint 'spreads' more evenly,smooth rather than stippled.This is a pretty key stage,sets the tone for the quality of the end finish.
Frames are one of the trickier things to spray,takes a bit of practice to put a coat on without a bit of orange peel (textured surface) somewhere or other.Applying the primer acts as good practice.The smoother you spray,the less flatting you'll need to do.But at least,even if you put a really lumpy coat on,it's fixable.
I do the tricky bits first then finish with the larger areas,ideally getting most of the paint on with one or two passes.'Drag' the paint across where possible,angle the nozzle slightly left when spraying left to right,then reverse for second pass.An adjustable/rotatable bike stand helps.
I find lacquer trickier,hard to gauge how much to put on and easier to get a run.It takes more work to flat out orange peel etc due to it's hardness.But hopefully by the time you get to that stage you'll have had some practice with the primer/basecoat!
Small floating objects will always be a source of frustration to home spraying of course,we just do the best we can to have a dust/insect free environment.Without poisoning ourselves!Warm frame/paint warmed in water.
And keep the WD40 etc away.Any tiny particles of that in the air will leave big 'fish eyes' in your paint.
All depends how far you want to take it,I'm a bit particular!Our powder coaters will coat a frame for under £50.Not a bad job either.
It's just not me.
icicleboy
Dirt Disciple
Well, I am totally new to painting frames, but I have been painting Warhammer miniatures for years and I have my own compressor. However, I think I will try the prep part of the job before handing over to the powder coaters for the magic part of the job. Still not totally decided as so much else going on in my life at the moment. And I also have to create some space in the workshop before I can begin to fettle. One bike to sell and another to break down for transfer parts
Much appreciate all the info that everyone has relayed to me. It is drawing me back into the building hobby
Much appreciate all the info that everyone has relayed to me. It is drawing me back into the building hobby
captaincowelly
Senior Retro Guru
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Pleased to hear it.Spent a lot of time painting Airfix/Humbrol/Tamiya as a young un.Never got round to getting my own compressor,still on the 'one day' list.I'd definitely be having a go myself with one of those to hand!
But that's me.If you're going to the powder coaters there's not much to do,they'll need the frame stripped of paint beforehand.Hope you manage to get some space sorted,look forward to seeing the work start.
I have considered doing a build with an 'aged' look,give it a few applications of a colour wash and dry brush dirt/rust on it.Throwback to my modelling days!
But that's me.If you're going to the powder coaters there's not much to do,they'll need the frame stripped of paint beforehand.Hope you manage to get some space sorted,look forward to seeing the work start.
I have considered doing a build with an 'aged' look,give it a few applications of a colour wash and dry brush dirt/rust on it.Throwback to my modelling days!
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