Nipples

IMHO alloy arent worth the cost of the materials.Too liable to seize onto the spoke threads :?
 
Alu are fine if you prepare well, though I wouldn't like to use them in rims that are not eyeleted or the eyelets don't form the base of the nipple bed but that's just me. Just not as easy to work with. Of my last wheel with Wheelsmith Alu nipples (some 17ish years old, only one spoke had to be cut as all the other came of fine.

Flaws with using them (Alu), they tend not to be as smooth to turn under tension. Much easier to mash them up, if you slip or of course use the wrong spoke key.

Brass are just easier to work with and harder to bugger up, if you've not built many wheels I would use brass to start with.

Not sure why you want to use the DT Swiss prolock I know they are brass or Alu but not sure how they colour the brass version, but you're paying to have some thread lock put in them.

I like the Spokey (now M:Part and DT swiss make/rebrand them also and no I don't know why DT swiss charge £10 more than M:part or similar just to have a cross in the plastic) over the now Park Tools style spoke key.
 
The black is electroplated..

Not seen black brass nipples outside of DT Prolock..

Don't know the difference between those and others... in this respect I am a nipple virgin.
 
i wouldn't use pro-loc nipples if i were you unless you are a really good wheelbuilder of course who can build a perfectly true and balanced in under an hour as pro-loc nips have a form of loc-tight glue that sets in about 2 hr's and is solid so once set thats it your only gonna get them out if you snip the spokes out :wink:

if your going for black nipples just use the halo black alu nipples mate and copper slip the spoke threads take from someone in the know its easier in the long than using pro loc's :wink: as the prolocs are the only black brass nips

hope this helps out 8)
 
Wheelsmith and Sapim (not done a UK search for them) do black brass nips too..

DT claim that the loctite allows for later adjustment.. is this not the case?
 
marin man":2wwamf73 said:
cannondale king":2wwamf73 said:
if nickle brass then silver only as black alu
I did not get that either,again in english please dan :lol: :lol:

it was late i was tired and i ment to put "if nickle brass nipples then you can only get silver but if your after black you will have to have alu"

i know what i wanted to type but my hands just missed words :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: it was late though :oops:
 
IDB1":mn0m2wi2 said:
Wheelsmith and Sapim (not done a UK search for them) do black brass nips too..

DT claim that the loctite allows for later adjustment.. is this not the case?

not a chance the dt nips are rock solid and if you can get the bond to seperate they just end up bing lose as it stresses the tread iv'e build a few sets for roadies with the loctite nips and they are just a pig to use and after truing is just near pointless :x :x :x bloody wheelsmith last time i checked only did silver brass nickle nips and sapim might but they might be a differnt gauge/threadrate to dt iv'e never mixed and matched dt with sapim to find out :?

if your using an eyeleted rim id just use the alu they build up just as good as brass and if you prep them right then they dont seize up
 
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