Muddyfox Courier - need a new chain

Moocow

Retro Newbie
Having taken the bike apart at the weekend - stripped off the horrible black stuff that seemed to pass for grease everywhere and rebuilt the rear hub with new bearings - I have found that now that the chain is freed up a cleaned properly it appears to be too long for the bike?
When in both front and rear smallest cogs the derailleur is rotated back to around the 9 o'clock position and the chain rubbing and then locks up after a turn or two.
I am assuming this is a function of the chain length as I cannot fathom how it could be adjusted out - if I move the derailleur by hand even a little back towards the eight o'clock position it leaves the chain massively slack.

Folding the chain over on itself by a link or two seems to give me the right position I would have expected.

Rather than just shortening a very tired chain, what are the general recommendations for a compatible modern chain to go on the bike?
Would the following be suitable? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-HG40-S ... YTYQ1XTC7F

I don't think finding anything by Suntour is going to be worth the efforts.

Many thanks
 
Re:

How many speeds/sprockets does your bike have at the rear?

If it's 6, 7 or 8 the chain you have selected will be fine. In fact with 7, 8 and 9 speed stuff apart from the number of positions on the shifter matching the number of sprockets it's all pretty much mix and match, although there are some caveats, so best to match. :D

Also, be aware that with a triple chainset, it's best not to use extreme combinations, for example inner ring on the front and outermost sprocket on the rear:

Many riders are unaware that certain combinations of gears should not be used. In the most extreme combinations of gears - either running the chain on the largest chainring and the largest sprockets on the rear wheel, or the smallest chainring and smallest sprockets - the chain line will become very severe. This results in extremely poor operation, rapidly increased component wear and potentially the chain coming off and jamming, even on an otherwise correctly set-up and maintained bike. By not attempting to select these gear combinations, you will enjoy improved performance, greater reliability and increased component and, in particular, transmission life. - See here: https://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/How-T ... leur-Gears

When you buy a new chain, it will likely be too long as is, so you will need to shorten it by a few links. See here: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... gth-sizing
 
Many thanks for the confirmation Xerxes,

If I select the gear by accident (I am very unlikely to "need" small/small) then I would end up with a locked back wheel or a snapped chain/derailleur as it is at the minute, which would be a terrible shame when it's the sake of £6 to get it all in the right place regardless of if I use it. Can't do any harm either to replace a 30 year old chain ;)
 
Re:

If the old chain is very worn, it's likely that other parts, cassette sprockets and chainrings are too. If they are, the new chain will quickly wear to fit the old worn parts, or a new chain will sometimes skip/slip on old worn sprockets as it no longer seats correctly at the bottom of the "valley" of the sprocket teeth. So have a good look and if that's the case it may be best to replace all the drive train parts.

To prolong the life of chainrings and cassettes it's best to replace the chain, which is generally the cheapest part of the drivetrain, before it gets too worn:

https://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/mainte ... train.html

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/arti ... ned-46015/
 
All sorted.
Picked up a new chain on the way home at the local Halfords.
The old one had it's day by the looks of things. Popped on the new one using the guide on Sheldon's web page to sort the length and it's now absolutely perfect.
Managed to dial the gears in nicely and all looks good now.

Think brakes are going to be the next thing, then the head bearings as there is some slight play in there.
 
Back
Top