Mr Lee's diy ice tyres

Is there not a bit much screw sticking out of the tyre...

I'd have thought that the optimum would be a few mm (say 2) sticking out to give bite but not dig a hole. If there is a lot of screw sticking out you run the risk of them not pushing through the ice and just forcing themselves back up into the tyre where they could puncture (I presume not as you'd have put rim tape or something around the heads) or just wiggling themselves a nice big hole and coming loose.

It's a great idea though. I've seen it done ages and ages ago where the screw/bolt is actually tightened with a thin nut from the outside of the tyre so it is clamped in place, with about a 1mm spike. The guy must have spent ages doing it as every "lump" on the profile had one - in the same way as you've positioned your screw through the tread block.
 
I'd be tempted to run a file/dremel over the end of each screw to blunt them a bit. If you come off the bike the sharp spikes could cut you up quite badly.
 
markoc":1h0o6usg said:
It's a great idea though. I've seen it done ages and ages ago where the screw/bolt is actually tightened with a thin nut from the outside of the tyre so it is clamped in place, with about a 1mm spike. The guy must have spent ages doing it as every "lump" on the profile had one - in the same way as you've positioned your screw through the tread block.

That is a very good idea - how about m4 bolts, with a washer on each side of the tyre (maybe a m5 washer as well as the m4 on the inner side), secured with a ny-loc nut on the tread side and you could profile a 'point' on a bit of the bolt that protrudes past the nut..... think I might have a go myself.
 
Anti-Platt anti-puncture strips between tyre and tube should stop the studs puncturing your tube.
 
markoc said:
Is there not a bit much screw sticking out of the tyre...

sorry forgot to say im going to grind them down to about 1mm

im trying to keep the cost down so gaffa's winning at the mo
 
Go for the round headed Alan M4 bolts. Then you'll possibly not need the tyre liner as there are no sharp edges to puncture the tube :wink:
 
I've done almost the same thing, except the screws were countersunk style and I used an old slick with the bead cut off as a tyre liner. Worked fine on the way home today, I used exactly the same pattern as the OP. Really noisy on tarmac, on ice they rule!
 
nevadasmith":1gts3ipo said:
markoc":1gts3ipo said:
It's a great idea though. I've seen it done ages and ages ago where the screw/bolt is actually tightened with a thin nut from the outside of the tyre so it is clamped in place, with about a 1mm spike. The guy must have spent ages doing it as every "lump" on the profile had one - in the same way as you've positioned your screw through the tread block.

That is a very good idea - how about m4 bolts, with a washer on each side of the tyre (maybe a m5 washer as well as the m4 on the inner side), secured with a ny-loc nut on the tread side and you could profile a 'point' on a bit of the bolt that protrudes past the nut..... think I might have a go myself.

I have done that on my rc car tyres - washer on both sides and plenty of super glue :lol:

WD :D
 
I did it the other way around, quarter inch self tappers glued into the tread blocks, thread facing into the tyre, but not to puncture the tyre in any way due to length of thread.

My idea was to recreate studded tyres for use on the road, and they worked well too, about 2mm of metal projection and of those screws, I used flat blade type screwdriver heads, the driver blade slot provides teeth within the screw head, but they wear fast on the road.

It seems to me the idea with thread projecting outwards is more use when riding off road, but seeing as the road is where I desire not to fall off, it was the road I had in mind when I made my studded tyres.
 
Nice to see you've already started on yours Lee.

I've ordered some tyres today to use for mine.
I reckon some nice wide flange head screws dipped in glue before threading would be a good start.
p2744473_m.jpg


Then I'll be clipping them back with bolt crops and filing back to just above the tread surface. Gaffer tape and/or an old inner tube ought to be fine for a liner.
 
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