Mavic Crossride cassette removal

[Markybeau]

I’m having a problem getting the cassette off. The lock ring won’t move, I can’t budge it at all. The wheel went to the LBS a few months back for the freehub looking at, and has maybe done 50 miles since. Over lockdown I’ve acquired the proper tools. I don’t have a problem with any other wheels, just this one.

It’s the yellow and black Crossride from 2001

 

[2manyoranges]

Re:

hmmm....

Last weekend I messed up whilst rushing and left a spacer out of my cassette - and when I realised I managed to get to an LBS near the forest, who kindly removed the cassette and installed a replacement. I also knew as I watched the guy spanner it back on that he was tightening WAY too much, and had a long handled Park tool to tighten the locking. He was pretty grumpy about doing the job just as the shop was closing, so I bit my tongue and said thanks - and was genuinely grateful since it had saved the ride. And so the next day out came the chain whip and my hyperglide tool that goes onto a 3/8 drive, with quite a long handle. Nothing. Would not budge. So out with Shimano tool, which I can clamp into the cassette with an axle, leaving just a little bit of play, Then a mahoosive Bahco adjustable spanner - long and HUGE. And with ALL my weight on it and and the chain whip, with the Grom leaning on the wheel......still nothing. So, finally align chain whip and spanner so that I can get both hands round both and PULL them together....and that did it. A LOT of force needed.

Then cleaned it, since grit jams them on, replaced locking with plenty of COPPASLIP anti seize, and just tightened a few clicks. Done.

 

[Markybeau]

Re:

Thanks Tim. I knew I could rely on you.
I always use copper grease on threads.

 

[legrandefromage]

Bigger tools for undoing and just a gentle tighten when re-fitting

 

[mattr]

Shimano and Campag both recommend 40/50Nm. Which certainly isn't a gentle tighten.
Running them looser than recommended i.e. not smushed down to correct torque, can give you all sorts of wear issues, especially on aluminum freehubs.

(Though yes. Some people overtighten them massively, you don't need a ******* impact driver or 2 foot bar to do them up!)

 

[2manyoranges]

Re:

Mattr - spot on - Hope alloy hubs get eaten by some cassettes and undertightening indeed gives as many problems as over tightening. But there's quite a bit discussion about the difference between lubricated and unlubricated threads when using a torque wrench. I completely trashed a stem a few years back by deciding to use a torque wrench but without thinking had put anti-size on the threads. This meant that the torque actually went through the roof, and stripped one of the threads - grrrr - and I learned a big lesson that day. I read about torque and lubrication (and Loc-Tite) and so when installing lubricated things I have reverted to 'feel' rather than using a torque wrench. For cassette lockings, I instal with anti-seize since installed dry they seem to get very very gritty and difficult to remove. So it's a question of 'on snug' and then a few of the loud clicks which it then gives off being tightened. Difficult to judge what 'snug' is, I know, because of the nature of the ridges on the lockring, but I'd say 'everything mated and not moving' and then maybe 1/8-1/4 extra turn...

 

[mattr]

Yeah, standard endloads are calculated using "light oil" on the threads....... use anything else, especially with some of the crap tolerancing that floats around in the bike business, it's almost a random number generator!

 

[legrandefromage]

Having to have dealt with the 'tighten it till it squeals' lot I try and do it with sympathy for the next person who may have to remove it.

All my own riders are just a couple of clicks tight, I dont want to faff about when changing things.

As for for aluminium freehub bodies, so many people had fitted steel cassettes to these and then wondered why the bloody things would start spinning under load a few rides later. And this was other bike mechanics.

Pfffttttttttttt!